
Class J^-^^ 
Book__j)iiLtL 



Copyright N"- 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSre 




SQUAM l.AKK, LOOKING SOUTH 



N:vT*:n^ 



HOLDERNESS 

AN ACCOUNT OF THE BEGINNINGS 
OF A NEW HAMPSHIRE TOWN 



BY 



GEORGE HODGES 




BOSTON AND NEW YORK 
HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY 

1907 



\- 



\-\^V\? 



LIBRARY ef CONGRESS 
Two CoDles Received 
iMAV 22 \907 

"L^-Cepyrrght Entry _, 

CUSsa A /CXc, No. 

COPY B. 



COPYRIGHT 1907 BY GEORGE HODGES 
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

Published May iqofj 



TO 

MY NEIGHBOR 

tE^lje Kcberenn jfreDcrtciJ llBa^lirs; alien 

TO WHOM I OWE MY FIRST ACQUAINTANCE 
WITH HOLDERNESS 



"I trust 
That some, who sigh, while wandering in thought. 
Pilgrims of Romance o'er the olden world, 
That our broad land, — our sea-like lakes and moun- 
tains 
Piled to the clouds, our rivers overhung 
By forests which have known no other change 
For ages than the budding and the fall 
Of leaves, our valleys lovelier than those 
Which the old poets sang of, — should but figure 
On the apocryphal chart of speculation 
As pastures, wood-lots, mill-sites, vnth the privileges. 
Rights, and appurtenances, which make up 
A Yankee Paradise, unsung, unknown. 
To beautiful tradition, . . . will look kindly 
Upon this effort to call up the ghost 
Of the dim Past." 

Whittier: The Bridal of Pennacook. 



CONTENTS 

INTRODUCTION xi 

i. the endicott rock .... 1 

ii. the indian trail 9 

iii. the charter 21 

iv. the name 29 

v. the settlement 35 

vi. samuel livermore, the squire 60 

vii. robert fowle, the parson . 67 

viii. the country town .... 76 

appendix: walks and drives . . 83 

INDEX 101 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

SQUAM LAKE, LOOKING SOUTH Frontispiece 
From a photograph by Rev. F. B. Allen. 

MAP SHOWING THE NORTHERN BOUND- 
ARY OF MASSACHUSETTS .... 6 

From Hubbard's " Narrative," 1677. 

THE INDIAN TRAIL 12 

From " A Correct Plan," 1756. 

lane's plan OF THE TOWNSHIP . . 2^ 
PLAN OF INTERVALE LOTS, 1752 . . .24 
THE HOLDERNESS CHARTER .... 26 

THE EARL OF HOLDERNESS .... 30 

From the portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 

PLAN OF HUNDRED-ACRE LOTS ... 36 

Drawn from descriptions in the Proprietors' records. 

THE WINBORN ADAMS HOUSE ... 38 

By courtesy of Hon. Lucien Thompson. 

PLAN OF INTERVALE LOTS, 1762 . . .40 
THE SAMUEL SHEPARD HOUSE . . . 42 , 
SQUIRE LIVERMORE {from the original by 
TrumbuU) and MRS. LIVERMORE {jrom the 
original by Copley) 60 



X ILLUSTRATIONS 

THE LIVERMORE HOUSE 64' 

From a photograph loaned by tlie Rev. Arthur 
Browne Livermore. 

THE REV. ROBERT FOWLE .... 70 

THE OLD church: EXTERIOR AND 

INTERIOR 72 

THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF HOLDERNESS 86 / 

By permission oj the Scarborough Co. 



INTRODUCTION 



THE Minutes of the meetings of the Pro- 
prietors of Holderness, from 1762 to 
1826, and the Minutes of the Town Meet- 
ings, from 1771 to 1815, are contained in 
two manuscript volumes called the Raw- 
hide Books. They are in the keeping of the 
town clerk. 

The original charter of 1761, under 
which the town was settled, is in the pos- 
session of Mr. Lucien Thompson, of Dur- 
ham, N. H. I am greatly indebted to Mr. 
Thompson for his courtesy in allowing me 
to have the charter photographed, and also 
for many curious and interesting notes con- 
cerning various persons who were among 
the grantees. 

The original maps showing the division 
of a part of the township into intervale lots 
and town lots belong to Mr. John M. 
Whiton, of Plainfield, N. J., whose father 
purchased a part of the Livermore estate, 



xii INTRODUCTION 

and received these maps along with the 
deed. Mr. Whiton has kindly permitted 
me to have them copied. 

The map which showed the two assign- 
ments of hundred-acre lots was destroyed 
by fire a good many years ago. It is re- 
drawn for this book by my neighbor, the 
Rev. Frederick Baylies Allen, of Boston, 
from the descriptions of the boundaries of 
the lots given in the proprietors' records. 
Mr. Allen has also drawn a map of the 
vicinity of Holderness, showing the chief 
points of interest and the best roads by 
which to reach them ; and Frederick Lewis 
Allen, his son, has contributed a careful de- 
scription of these interesting places, with 
ample directions for walkers and climbers, 
and explanations of views. These accounts 
are the result of actual experience, and will 
be found to be an accurate guide to the ex- 
ploration of the neighborhood. 

With the late Mr. Arthur Livermore, of 
Manchester, England, I carried on a cor- 
respondence for several years. He was a 
grandson of Judge Samuel Livermore, and 
his memory went back to the early days 
of Holderness. The endeavor to make that 



INTRODUCTION xiii 

old life visible and audible to-day would 
have been almost impossible without his 
kindly interest, and his contributions of 
details. The original of the portrait of 
Judge Livermore is owned by the Rev. 
Arthur Browne Livermore, of Key West, 
Fla. The artist Trumbull had planned 
and begun a great painting of the first 
American Congress at the time of the In- 
auguration of Washington. When he aban- 
doned the undertaking he cut the finished 
portraits out of the canvas; and this one 
he gave to the judge's son Arthur, from 
whom it came to Mr. Livermore, his grand- 
son, by whose courtesy I was able to have 
it copied. The portrait of Mrs. Livermore 
was painted by Copley. It is owned by 
Mr. James Livermore Ford, of New York 
City, who very kindly had it photographed 
for this book. 

The silhouette of Priest Fowle is taken 
from a photograph which hung for many 
years in the old church near the Holderness 
School. It was loaned me for reproduction 
by Mrs. Lorin Webster, of Holderness. 

Dr. Samuel A. Green, secretary of the 
Massachusetts Historical Society, gave me 



xiv INTRODUCTION 

permission to reproduce from a book of his 
the map of New England which shows the 
northern boundary of Massachusetts as 
measured from the Endicott Rock. 

I have found valuable information in the 
State Papers of New Hampshire (ii, 124) 
and in the Town Papers (ix, 394-396, and 
xii, 226-230). I have consulted with profit 
the collections of maps in the Boston Pub- 
lic Library and in the State Library at 
Concord, and have read whatever histo- 
ries have been published of the neighbor- 
ing towns. Belknap's "History of New 
Hampshire," Sweetser's "White Moun- 
tains," and Sanborn's "New Hampshire" 
have been of use to me. 

I am further indebted for various cour- 
tesies to Mr. Laurence J. Webster, Mr. 
Robert P. Curry, and Mr. Carlton C. 
Shepard, of Holderness; Colonel Thomas 
P. Cheney and Mr. Frank M. Hughes, of 
Ashland; Mrs. G. N. P. Mead of Win- 
chester, Mass., Mrs. Charles B. Washburn 
of Worcester, Mass., Miss Gertrude Graves 
of Boston, Dr. James M. Whiton of New 
York, and Dr. Louis W. Flanders of Dover, 
N. H. 



INTRODUCTION xv 



II 



The township of Holderness is in the 
middle of New Hampshire. It is midway 
between Canada and Massachusetts, and 
between Maine and Vermont. Also the 
date of the Holderness Charter is at the 
middle point of New Hampshire history. 

The first period of New Hampshire his- 
tory, the Era of Dependence, began with 
the first settlements, in 1623, and included 
the French and Indian War. During this 
time the colony of New Hampshire was 
dependent on the colony of Massachusetts. 
The chief events grew out of the relations 
of our settlers on the one hand with the 
Puritans of Massachusetts, and on the 
other hand with the savages of the wilder- 
ness. The second period, the Era of Inde- 
pendence, began with the treaty of Paris, 
in 1763, and includes the War of the Revo- 
lution and all the subsequent progress. 
During this time the colony first achieved 
and has since enjoyed its liberties as a free 
commonwealth in this republic. 

During the Era of Dependence, Holder- 
ness was hidden in the Great Waste. But 



xvi INTRODUCTION 

it touched the life of the time at two points : 
it was in the near neighborhood of the 
Endicott Rock, by which the Puritans cal- 
culated their claims to New Hampshire; 
and it was beside the Indian Trail, between 
New France, as Canada was then called, 
and New England. Our first business, 
therefore, in the study of the beginnings 
of Holderness, is with the Endicott Rock 
and with the Indian Trail. 



HOLDERNESS 



THE ENDICOTT ROCK 

THE colonies of Plymouth and Massa- 
chusetts Bay differed widely in politics 
and in religion from the colonies of Maine 
and New Hampshire. The settlers on the 
south of the Merrimac represented one 
side and the settlers on the north the other 
in that great struggle between the Puritans 
and the Cavaliers which occupied the larger 
part of the seventeenth century in England. 

Sir Ferdinando Gorges, the founder of 
Maine, and Captain John Mason, who 
called his lands New Hampshire from the 
English Hampshire where he lived, pro- 
posed to set up in these parts a pleasant 
aristocracy, with vast estates, in loyal 
allegiance to the House of Stuart and to 
the Church of England. As for Bradford 
and Endicott, everybody knows what dif- 
ferent plans they had. 

There was, accordingly, a disposition 



2 HOLDERNESS 

on the part of Charles and of Laud to put 
down the two colonies of Puritans and 
exalt the two colonies of Cavaliers. They 
determined, for the good of king and 
church, to take away the charters under 
which the Puritans were conducting them- 
selves with such inconvenient independ- 
ence, and to put all the settlements under 
Gorges as Governor- General and Mason as 
Vice- Admiral. Gorges and Mason, there- 
fore, prepared to visit Boston, and built 
a ship to transport armed maintainers 
of their unwelcome dignities. The Boston 
people made ready to receive, them, and 
erected on one of their hills a beacon, 
which from that time gave the hill a name 
which it still bears, in order that they 
might thus give warning to all the neigh- 
bors when the ship appeared. But the 
ship broke at the launching, and Charles 
and Laud had their hands full at home, and 
in the place of an invasion of Massachu- 
setts by New Hampshire, there followed 
a much more effective invasion of New 
Hampshire by Massachusetts. 

Of this invasion, the Endicott Rock at 
the Weirs is an enduring memorial. 



THE ENDICOTT ROCK 3 

The northern boundary of Massachu- 
setts, as established by charter, was an 
east and west line from any point three 
miles north of the Merrimac ; as the south- 
ern boundary was an east and west line 
from any point three miles south of the 
Charles ; each of these lines running to the 
PacijBc Ocean. Mason's commission as 
Vice-Admiral gave him command of the 
coasts not only of Maine but of California. 
The continent was thought to be about as 
wide as the Isthmus of Panama. But the 
banks of the Merrimac, it was presently 
discovered, turned about, some thirty miles 
from the sea, and started north. In this 
bend of the river the Massachusetts au- 
thorities deemed themselves providentially 
pointed to that great bag of gold which is 
said to be waiting at the end of the rain- 
bow. For as far as the water went, so far 
the borders of the Massachusetts colony 
extended. How far north, then, did the 
Merrimac begin .^ 

In 1639, by order of the General Court 
of Massachusetts, Goodman Woodman 
and Mr. John Stretton, with an Indian 
guide, went in search of this northernmost 



4 HOLDERNESS 

point and found it at Franklin, where the 
Pemigewasset and the Winnepesaukee 
meet. Three miles above this fork they set 
the boundary at a great pine. This was 
known as the Endicott tree, and was so 
marked on the map in Mather's " Mag- 
nalia " as late as 1702.^ 

In 1652, the General Court appointed 
a commission to make a further survey. 
Captain Edward Johnson and Captain 
Simon Willard, being selected for this duty, 
employed John Sherman of Watertown as 
surveyor, and Jonathan Ince of Cambridge 
as interpreter. Ince, who had graduated 
at Harvard in 1650, was President Dun- 
ster's private secretary and at the same 
time the butler of the college. John Eliot 
described him as "a godly young man, 
who hath a singular felicity to learn and 
pronounce the Indian tongue." Johnson 
wrote the history of New England, 1628- 
52, having as sub-title the "Wonder- 
Working Providence of Sion's Saviour." 
Willard, who was then living in Cambridge, 

* Boundary Line between New Hampshire and Massachusetts, 
by Samuel Abbott Green, Lowell, 1894. 

Report of Commission for the Preservation, Protection and 
Appropriate Designation of the Endicott Rock, Concord, 1893. 



THE ENDICOTT ROCK 5 

moved afterwards to Groton, and his was 
the first house burned in that town at the 
beginning of King Philip's War. 

As for Sherman, Mr. Hubbard, minister 
at Ipswich, pubHshed in 1677 "A Narra- 
tive of the Troubles with the Indians in 
New England," and at the beginning of 
the book addressed some lines of verse to 
"J. S." And in an early copy a marginal 
note explained that J. S. was John Sher- 
man, the surveyor. This book contained 
the first map of New England engraved in 
this country. It showed the White Moun- 
tains, named the Wine (i. e. "beautiful") 
Hills, and it carried a bold straight line 
across from Winnepesaukee to the sea, 
marking the northern boundary of Mas- 
sachusetts. 

For these explorers were not content to 
find the source of the Merrimac at the 
junction of the Winnepesaukee and the 
Pemigewasset. They followed the Winne- 
pesaukee to the lake. At the outlet of the 
lake, the Indians had constructed weirs. 
That is, they had placed a line of rocks 
across the water, with nets stretched be- 
tween to catch shad. The salmon and the 



HOLDERNESS 



shad then came up the Merrimac, and at 
the forks of the river divided into two com- 
panies, the salmon seeking the cold waters 
of the Pemigewasset and the shad the clear 
expanses of the lake, for breeding places. 
At these weirs, the Indians told them, the 
river had its source. There, accordingly, 
on a big boulder, which lies in the lake near 
the present railway station of Weirs, they 
cut the name of the governor, the Worship- 
ful John Endicut, and the initials of the 
commissioners. 



EI 



sw 



WP JOHN 

ENDICUT 

GOV 



The rock was found thus inscribed in 1833, 
and there are the letters to this day, under 
a protecting canopy of stone, — the oldest 
English inscription on this continent. 

Then they made a calculation of the de- 
gree of latitude three miles north of that 
point, being well up into Meredith Bay, 
and there they located the northern bound- 







'Z3 



THE ENDICOTT ROCK 7 

ary of Massachusetts. They returned to 
Boston with this report, and the degree of 
latitude was given to two competent mar- 
iners, with instructions to discover where 
it fell on the Atlantic seaboard. This place 
the mariners found on the upper side of 
Little Clapboard Island, in Casco Bay. 
The commissioners then drew a straight 
line on the map between the ocean and 
the lake, — let us say, between Portland 
and Meredith, — and reported this highly 
satisfactory delimitation to the General 
Court. It thus appeared that the terms 
of the Massachusetts grant — three miles 
north of the Merrimac — took in a good 
part of New Hampshire and a fair section 
of Maine into the bargain. 

The Massachusetts people afterwards 
withdrew so much of this claim as was 
carried by the straight line to Casco Bay, 
but they maintained for many years that 
they owned the land for at least three miles 
along the whole course of the Merrimac. 
This included Concord and the other river 
towns, and bisected the New Hampshire 
province. 

It did not greatly matter, for New Hamp- 



8 HOLDERNESS 

shire was actually merged in Massachu- 
setts until 1679, and after that, though a 
separate province, was ruled by governors 
who were at the same time governors of 
Massachusetts, and lived in Boston. Ben- 
ning Wentworth, beginning in 1741, was 
the first of the royal governors to reside in 
this province, and the year in which he was 
appointed saw the Privy Council definitely 
settle the boundary line between the two 
communities as it is at present. Three 
miles north of the river runs the line till the 
great bend, and then straight on into the 
west. 



II 

THE INDIAN TRAIL 

THE Indians whom the commissioners 
met at the Weirs bring us to the second 
point of contact between Holderness and 
the earher part of New Hampshire history. 
Beside the Endicott Rock lay the Indian 
Trail. 

It was for fear of the Indians that the 
middle part of New Hampshire remained 
unoccupied till so late a date as 1761. Until 
the French and Indian War was ended with 
the capture of Quebec, it was not safe to 
venture so far into the Great Waste. The 
savages held it in complete possession. 
These men belonged to the Stone Age. 
They were further removed from civiliza- 
tion than any people with whom the settlers 
of Europe have had to deal within historic 
times. They were of the Algonquin race, 
which held almost all of this continent east 
of the Mississippi and north of the lower 
boundary of Virginia and Kentucky, ex- 



10 HOLDERNE&'S 

cept New York and Pennsylvania, which 
were held by their enemies, the Iroquois. 

Within the limits of the present state 
of New Hampshire, the Algonquins were 
divided by the mountains and the rivers 
into a dozen tribes. There were six, from 
south to north, along the line of railway 
which now traverses the centre of the state. 

1. The Nashuas, in the Nashua valley, 
taking their name from the pebbly bottom 
of their river. 

2. The Souhegans, a little off the line, 
to the west, in the Souhegan valley: sou 
meaning "worn-out," and hegan "land." 

3. The Amoskeags, about Manchester; 
a "fishing place." 

4. The Pennacooks, about Concord; a 
"crooked place;" keag, cook, auke, scoty 
and perhaps set, being variants of a single 
term of locality. 

5. The Winnepesaukes, around the lake: 
from winne "beautiful," ij)e "water," and 
auke. 

6. The Pemigewassets, at Holderness. 
The name (from "pemi or 'peni "crooked," 
cods "thick woods," and set "place") 
seems to have come from the great S in 



THE INDIAN TRAIL 11 

the river between Holderness and Ply- 
mouth, which was afterwards straightened 
out by a sturdy freshet. 

East of these tribes, from south to north, 
were seven others. 

1 . The Squamscots, about Exeter : squam 
meaning "water." 

2. The Pascataquakes, about Ports- 
mouth and Dover: pas meaning "great," 
attuck "deer," and auke "place." 

3. The Newichawannocks, in the valley 
of the Salmon Falls: from ne "my," 
week "wigwam," and owannock "come." 

4. The Ossipees, about the pond and 
mountains of that name: from cobs 
"woods," and i'pe "water." 

5. The Pequakets, in the valley of the 
Saco. 

6. The Amariscoggins, in the valley of 
the Androscoggin. 

7. The Coosucks, in the Coos intervales.^ 
As for the White Mountains, it is said 

that some of the Indians revered them as 
the abode of the spirits, and expected to go 
to Mt. Washington when they died. 

' For these definitions see Potter's History of Manchester, 
and Edward Ballard's paper on Indian Names connected with 
the Valley of the Merrimack, in Coll. N. H. Hist. Soc. viii, 451. 



12 HOLDERNESS 

The Indian Trail lay between the St. 
Lawrence and the sea ; between the French 
and Indian town of St. Francis, now 
Pierreville, near Montreal, and the English 
towns of Portsmouth and Dover, of Exeter 
and Hampton. It came down by land and 
water, along the St. Francis River, across 
Lake Memphremagog, through the thick 
forests to the Connecticut, down this high- 
way to Baker's River, to the Pemigewasset, 
by the Squam lakes, along Winnepesaukee 
to Alton Bay, and thence across the coun- 
try to the coast. Thus Cotton Mather, in 
1702, describes the carrying away of Sarah 
Gerrish after a foray upon Dover. It was 
*'a terrible March," he says, "through the 
thick Woods and a Thousand other Mis- 
eries, till they came to the Norway-Plains 
[i. e. to Rochester]. From thence they 
made her go to the end of Winnopisseag 
Lake, and from thence to the Eastward, 
through horrid Swamps, where sometimes 
they must Scramble over huge trees fallen 
by Storm or Age for a vast way together, 
and sometimes they must Climb up Long, 
Steep, Tiresome and almost Inaccessible 
Mountains. ... a long and sad journey 



THE INDIAN TRAIL 13 

she had of it, thro' the midst of a hideous 
Desart, in the midst of a dreadful Winter 
. . . At last they arrived at Canada." The 
eastward turn may have been from Alton 
Bay towards Wolfeborough. 

A map made in 1756, showing the way 
John Stark was carried captive, assists the 
theory that the trail ran between Winne- 
pesaukee and Squam, following substan- 
tially the present course of the College 
Road, and striking the Pemigewasset at 
Plymouth. Along this trail the savages 
retreated after their forays on the coast 
towns, with their plunder and their cap- 
tives. These captives were probably the 
first white persons who passed through this 
region. Women made up the greater part , 
of these miserable companies, who had 
seen their homes burned, their husbands 
and fathers and brothers tortured, and their 
little children dashed against the trees. 
And after them, along this way, came the 
avenging settlers. Thus in the winter of 
1703, Captain Tyng led a party of rangers 
on snowshoes up the valley of the Pemige- 
wasset, and took five Indian scalps. And 
other avengers followed in his steps. 



14 HOLDERNESS 

The French and Indian War included 
six campaigns: — 

1. King Philip's War: three years, 
1675-78. 

2. King William's War: ten years, 1689- 
99. 

3. Queen Anne's War : ten years, 1703- 
13. 

4. Captain Lovewell's War : three years, 
1722-25. 

5. The War beginning at Louisburg: 
five years, 1744-49. 

6. The War ending at Quebec: five 
years, 1754-59. 

The contest was concluded by the treaty 
of Paris, at our central date, 1763. 

King Philip's War did not touch this 
region. It served, however, to prove the 
fidelity of the chiefs whose names are com- 
memorated in our neighboring mountains. 
Passaconaway, who was at the head of the 
Pennacooks, and perhaps of a wide federa- 
tion of tribes, had been from the beginning 
a friend of the white men. He was held in 
great awe by his Indian subjects, who said 
that he could make the water burn, the 



THE INDIAN TRAIL 15 

rocks move, the trees dance, and could 
change himself into a flaming man.^ He 
declared that a policy of peace had been 
taught him by the Great Spirit. His son, 
Wonnalancet, who succeeded him as chief, 
followed in his steps. He restrained his 
people from attacking the whites, and even 
protected the settlers from his savage 
brethren. After the war, he asked the 
minister of Chelmsford if he and his neigh- 
bors had suffered. " No," said the minister, 
"thank God." '*Me next," said Wonna- 
lancet. 

During Queen Anne's War, in March, 
1712, Captain Thomas Baker, of North- 
ampton, with a company of rangers, at- 
tacked the Indians at Plymouth. Of this 
engagement several picturesque accounts 
are given. Mrs. Bean, the captain's daugh- 
ter, says that her father encountered a great 
body of French and Indians coming down 
from Canada. He took them by surprise 
and killed so many that the others re- 
treated. Baker took the blanket of the chief 
Waternomee, covered with silver brooches, 
which is "still among his descendants." 

» Wood's New England's Prospect, Boston, 1764, p. 100. 



16 HOLDERNESS 

Either the slaughter was not so great as 
Mrs. Bean supposed, or the repulse was 
not so complete, for on June 5, 1712, 
Baker was paid <£20 by the General Court; 
half of that amount for a scalp actually in 
hand, and the other half "for one Enemy 
Indian besides that which they Scalped, 
which seems very probable to be slain." 
Baker is said to have fought with Water- 
nomee, who when mortally wounded leaped 
four or five feet into the air. He is also 
said to have deceived the Indians w^ho 
pursued him, by directing each of his men 
to use five sticks in roasting meat for 
supper: the Indians, coming upon the 
ashes of the fires, counted the sticks, and 
concluded that there were too many white 
men to be attacked with prudence.^ 

Baker's River, near which the encounter 
took place, bears the name of this hero. 
It was formerly called Asquamchumauke; 
from asquam "water," wadchu "moun- 
tain," and auke. Baker had been captured 
by the Indians and taken to Canada, 
whence he had escaped or been ransomed. 

^ Little's History of Warren, 80-86; Stearns's History of 
Plymouth; Penhallow's Indian Wars, Coll. N. H. Hist. Soc. i, 
60, 128. 



THE INDIAN TRAIL 17 

He had afterwards served as a guide. Thus 
he had learned the traih He died in 1753, 
"of lethargy!" 

Captain Lovewell, in the process of the 
campaign which bears his name, came up 
here and marched around Squam Lake. 
Near the scene of Baker's adventure, he 
killed an Indian. Afterwards, coming 
again, he scalped ten Indians who were 
sleeping by a fire beside a frozen pond. At 
last, in 1725, near Fryeburg, he encoun- 
tered Paugus, a chief of the Pequakets. In 
the fierce fight which ensued both Lovewell 
and Paugus lost their lives. 

After that, the Pequakets abandoned 
their lands and retired to St. Francis, 
whither the Pemigewassets had already 
gone. Chocorua, however, one of their 
warriors, stayed behind and made friends 
with the whites. One time, while he was on 
a visit to St. Francis, his son, whom he had 
left in charge of a settler named Campbell, 
tasted some poison which was meant for 
foxes, and died. Chocorua, on his return, 
finding his son dead, killed all of Camp- 
bell's family. Campbell pursued him, so 
the story goes, to the rocky peak of the 



18 HOLDERNESS 

mountain which now bears his name, and 
there killed him as he stood on that great 
eminence with arms outstretched, calling 
down curses on the settlers. 

The next chapter of the war, w^hich in- 
cludes the capture of Louisburg, furnishes 
no material for our local history; though 
I cannot forbear to quote the comment on 
that extraordinary victory, which Dr. Belk- 
nap cites from an old writer. "This siege," 
he says, "was carried on in a tumultuary 
random manner, resembling a Cambridge 
commencement." 

Finally, in the last days of the century- 
long struggle, in 1759, Major Robert 
Rogers the Ranger ^ led over two hundred 
men from Crown Point, over Lake Cham- 
plain, to St. Francis. After a hard march, he 
saw the place afar off from the top of a tall 
tree. That night he and two others went in 
disguise to the village, and looked on at a 
great dance in which the Indians were cele- 
brating their forays upon the settlements. 
The place was appropriately decorated 

* Rogers wrote an account of his adventures, published in 
London, 1765, reprinted in Concord, 1831. See also Little's 
History of Warren, 141 ff. 



THE INDIAN TRAIL 19 

with poles set along the streets, from which 
hung the scalps of several hundred victims. 
Before dawn, while the savages were still 
asleep, Rogers and his rangers fell upon 
them. They killed many, and sacked their 
houses, which they found filled with New 
England spoils. There was a French 
church in the midst of the village, from 
which they took a silver image of the Vir- 
gin Mary, and a pair of golden candle- 
sticks. Then they set fire to the village and 
retreated, keeping together till they passed 
Lake Memphremagog, and then dividing 
into parties. They lost their way. Some 
perished in the woods by hunger and 
weariness; some were led by deceptive 
Indian guides into impenetrable wastes; 
all suffered great hardships before they 
reached the settlements. Some of them 
must have come down this way by the old 
trail. The golden candlesticks were found, 
in 1816, near Memphremagog, but the silver 
image still lies hidden under the leaves of 
the forest. 

The Indians left no lasting traces of their 
existence in these parts. In the fertile 
intervales by Livermore Falls and at the 



20 HOLDERNESS 

junction of Baker's River and the Pemige- 
wasset, the early settlers found the ridges 
of old cornfields and the ashes of old fires, 
with arrowheads and pestles. Priest Fowle 
found traces of the ancient inhabitants on 
his glebe by Squam Lake. There they 
lived, "drawn to the spot," he says, "from 
the convenience of water and fishing." A 
French sword was once dug up in the vil- 
lage, a relic of the long war. The Indians 
came no more to attack the settlements, 
but their descendants still make visits to- 
these parts, bringing gayly colored baskets 
of sweet-scented grass to sell to summer 
visitors. 

With Robert Rogers the Ranger we 
come at once to the settlement of Holder- 
ness, for Mrs. Robert Rogers was a daugh- 
ter of the Rev. Arthur Browne of Ports- 
mouth, who married Martha Hilton to 
Governor Benning Wentworth, as we read 
in "The Tales of a Wayside Inn;" and 
Mrs. Robert Rogers's sister was the wife of 
Samuel Livermore, who presently became 
the squire of this parish. 



Ill 

THE CHARTER 

IN the course of the long fight with the 
savages, men had noted the fertile 
lands, the great forests, the lakes and hills 
and streams of central New Hampshire, 
and were waiting for an opportunity to take 
possession. CaptainWillard, Captain Fair- 
banks, Captain Goffe had brought up com- 
panies of Indian fighters. About 1746, the 
New Hampshire soldiers who were enlisted 
for Shirley's expedition against Canada 
were encamped for some time by Winnepe- 
saukee, where they whiled away their sea- 
son of waiting by exploration of the region, 
and hunting and fishing. 

Already, in 1751, the township of Hol- 
derness had been asked for and granted. 
On October 15 in that year, His Excellency, 
Benning Wentworth, laid before the coun- 
cil a "petition of Thomas Shepard and 
others, inhabitants of the Province, praying 
for a grant of His Majesty's lands of the 



22 HOLDERNESS 

contents of six miles square on Pemidg- 
wasset river, on the east side thereof, as 
surveyed and planned by Samuel Lane, 
surveyor. ... to which the Council did 
advise and consent." 

Thomas Shepard's petition was signed 
by sixty-four persons, to whom accordingly 
the grant was made. Lane's plan of the 
township accompanied the charter. The 
most interesting detail of it to us is the name 
given to what we call the Squam River. 
It is there called the Cohoss River; that 
is, the river of the woods. Colonel Cheney 
of Ashland writes me in this connection: 
"From my earliest boyhood a point on 
Squam River in this village, the junction of 
Ames Brook and Squam River, has always 
been known as *the Old Cohoss.' It was 
where all the boys were allowed to go in 
bathing, and where we all learned to swim. 
We used to say, 'Let's go down to the Old 
Cohoss, and go in swimming."' Accord- 
ing to the tradition of the place, Cohoss was 
the name of the last of the Pemigewasset 
Indians, but it was really the old name of 
the river. 

The river was called Squam as early as 



fl Cr-e^T r-U^ ot fit 

V 




TIIK INDIAN' THAI!. 



The Great 



West six miles to a Red Oak Tree Marked SL.1750TS.TL:. 




y From a White Pine Tree Spotted or ^rarked 



East six miles to a White Pine Tree. SL.i;5oTS TE 



THK PLAX OF TIIK TOWNSHIP 
MADE BY 

SAMUEL LAXE 

TO ACCOM P.VXY 

THE CHARTER OF 1751 



THE CHARTER 23 

1765, when the hundred-acre lot, No. 
51, was described in the proprietors' re- 
cords as bordering "Squam river at the 
mouth of the Pond." But the lake bore the 
name of Cusumpy as late as 1784. The 
earliest map which shows the Holderness 
region is dated 1756, and the lake is named 
Cosumpia Pond; on a map of the next 
year, it is Cusumpe Pond; on the map 
which Robert Fletcher made in 1768, the 
name is Cusumpy; so in 1781, with a little 
difference in the spelling, Kusumpe. But 
in 1784, in Samuel Holland's map, — ''Sur- 
veyor General of Lands for the Northern 
District of North America," — we read 
Squam or Cusumpy Pond.^ In 1813, when 
President Dwight, of Yale, passed by this 
way on one of his tours of observation, he dis- 
liked the name of Squam. "We shall take 
the liberty," he says, "to call [Squam] by the 
name of Sullivan, from Major General Sul- 
livan, formerly President of the State." And 
so it appears, as Lake Sullivan, on the map 
in his second volume. Happily, the Indian 
name continued; but how the change was 

» Boston Public Library, Collection of Maps, 119, 7: 5 ; 17, 
4: 24; 17, 4:45. 



-Ukl 



■^L 



v 



rk^4 



>\' 






■ ■ ■.U:,,;A,..i„ 
>'«/ ale ,: „^Sxit 



\, 



t^" 







111 








RU.E LOTS. 1752 



THE CHARTER 25 

ment, for nobody settled in the place, and 
the charter lapsed; probably for fear of 
the savages. 

The decisive defeat of the French at 
Quebec, in 1759, removed that terror from 
this region. The land was open for safe 
occupation. In 1761, Governor Benning 
W entworth issued grants for eighteen 
townships. It was under one of these grants 
that Holderness was finally settled. 

The charter, as it appears to-day, is a 
much creased and thumb-marked docu- 
ment, patched with strips of paper. It is 
printed in the conventional form, with 
blank spaces appropriately filled in. The 
name of George the Third stands at the 
top in bold letters, with the title, "By the 
Grace of God, of Great Britain, France 
and Ireland, King, Defender of the Faith, 
&c." It incorporates into a township a 
piece of land of six miles square, "butted 
and bounded as follows, Viz. Beginning 
at a red oak tree at the foot of the great 
Falls of the Pemidgwasset river, thence 
running East six miles. Then turning off 
at right angles and running South six 
miles, Then turning off again and run- 



26 HOLDERNESS 

ning Westerly six miles to a White Pine 
Tree marked, standing on the bank of 
the river aforesaid, then running up said 
river northerly as that runs to the Bound 
first above mentioned as Bound begun 
at."* As soon as there are fifty fam- 
ilies actually settled they may have two 
fairs, on dates left blank in the charter. 
These dates were stated in 1751 as the first 
Wednesday in June and in October, not 
to continue longer than the following Fri- 
day. Also a market may be kept open one 
or more days of each week. Lieutenant 
Thomas Shepard is to call the first town 
meeting and act as moderator of the same. 
Five conditions accompany these privi- 
leges: 1st, that every grantee shall culti- 
vate five acres out of every fifty, within two 
years; 2d, that all white and other pine 
trees, suitable for making masts for the 
royal navy, be reserved for that purpose; ^ 
3d, that a tract of the township be marked 

^ These limits continued to enclose the township of Holder- 
ness until 1868, when the southwest corner was set off as Ash- 
land. 

^ A New Hampshire law of 1708 had reserved for the broad 
arrow all white pines which were 24 inches in diameter at 12 
nches from the ground. Belknap's Hist. N. H. i, 188. 



\ 



^ ■^' 



TROVINCE of NnW-HAMIiHIRE. 



G EO RG E xh^ Third, 



Py the Grace of GOD. of Grfai.Ii?:»in, 

KING, Defender of the Fj.di, gfe. 

7J cllPerfmut ^hmiihtjc Fnjir.ls fidt ci 



KNOW -, e, thM We of OurWuJ Gr.iee, c 
^0uiri>inder >n Chwf of 0&^ Tto^t^ of N«w^ Hil v 
Ihelwd Trtvin^c ; HAVE upon lb< -Condilioni and Rclcmti^ri 
lhe& Prelcn:i, for ut, our Hein, a d Sudcdtbci, <lu give ind g! 
InhilMantiof Out u'ld Province of I\ w-Hdmpftjrt. and Ouroth'-- Covert 
for ever, wrho'e NiTties are er.tred < i tbii Gnni, 10 be divided to ar>d 
Cijual Shwet, all ihit TciA or E'jrcel < ' Laad ficuaid lying and being wilhi 



rtiin Knon'.cdg^i. »nd mecr *!.Micn, 

WtNTUtoJlTH. toe* O.k C^et*! a J 
■mm* ;f^AfcwH!i.f(i«>r«»*uf-o».i C^t-rlrt •J 
herein after made, ^u a'ul {nneed. ar.il b/ 



monsn li 



> tV.( Htin and hini'i 
jvinte of Ntm-lbti^'rf, 



«wremcr.t.,7,/-..K//.„/i .V/^'. y/..^ 

o mure 1 oji «r wl|lch an Alhirance ii to be mide for Higb Wajrt lad iiriimpronble Linili bj 
Vreo^ 



.-> //,,v„ '/(/ / 



r^T-v^ 



7,^;S^Xx: 



Aad that ilie fjine 
And the fohabiuK 
with 3.-)d tni:tEe<i ti 

dd Enjoy ; And funher. 



SerebruIiiawpo-aierfifttaaTownftiipWiheNanieof //V// //,/.//?,.' i.'f . 

boT llnll hereiftet inhaU: the fivl Townro (\ are hereby d«Ur«d lo be KnfraachUed 

ery the P.-^riledget and Immunnrn th« whet Towpt woJiin Our Prorioce bj Law 



irfiicnt *ai fcniei 
1*-. which Fain 




reable 






tvlUh U«i MeetuiK rt.»ll he NoufteJ I7 ^■■^'- A-,...^^ .//..,.. ,;^ J yho i, 
« VodcraEorca !h« tiiJ ai A Meeting, which he ii la VotiFy and Govern igreable to tltr I.iui 



and C'uftomi 'of Our f»y PioMftce; aid ihwilieanniul Meeting for 

for the fiid Town, fiiall be on the Y. ,..; >C.. , .■ ^ of Manb annoallv. To HAVE ari ta 

HOLD the f*iJ Ttaft of L»nd ai abo^e e»p<effe<l. tojetSer wiili all Privilegei and Appuftenancw, 10 them and iboi 
refoeflrfe I leir* and Aflignj forcwr, aaon the following CnnditiOM, via. 

I, Thai ei-ety Grantee, hij Ileirt wf Afflgnt {hrfl Kant and ««lti*»ic five Aerei of Land wiihm (lie Term of ftw 
Ve»r» fm-e^er>fiftv Acre»«mtainedi4lii»utiheir Skueor Propotttonof Laodin ftidTowriftiiii and coiiiinue ti> 
improve and fettle the fame hvadditiooH Cultivation*, on Penally of the Forfeiture of h;t Cfi.it or Sture In ibe A^d 
Townfhip, andrf iurevertm;ioUi,*ur Heir* and SuccelLf*. lobe by L'l or Them Rc-rramtd to luch cfOuf 
Sobjeat ai OiiH cScfluatly fettle and (ultivaie ihc fame. 

"— "^ ■'■in the t»i.i Townftiip. fit Ux Msfljng Oor Rwa! Nivy. he earefully 

d wiiliuul 0«r fr«lal Licence lor fo d^in^ iwA I.id and obtained, 
if the Ricbt of fueh Grantee, hn Ueirt j ■ 

ing rabjed toj the Penally of -any Aa or Adi of Pailiameni ibit coiv are, or Ikcrcaftcr 



Succellbf*. 
Hull U E 
lit. That bef.^ 



Paialty c 
at well i 

bat bef ' 
if the 6 



i<ameni ibj 

e made to mkJ among the Grantee*, a Tfa 
dnut of, Hull be ie:'ened and nufkcd out 1 

_. ___ -onteota of one Acre. 

UiToDMIciri and SucctfT.^ for the Space of ' 



Ear oMndiw Oxn oi.lr. rwi the tweniT-filihDjy of biimdtr annuallT,' 

to be ma*f on ihe twcnly-fifth Oiy of /)/.-/-, >i *? '''■- 

irant. 1K.IV WA and^.>.i.,v. I'l, cj; Hot irl M.-«iT.fi ve.rlv. »=>.^ 



•/WK 



iritl admit of, Hull be 

^ . ,-f ^ Content* of nne I 

IV. YielJing and plying therefor 
from the Djle jlSeof. the Rent of 
if lawfully demanded, the fiifl Pay 

V. F.very Pir^rieif " ' 
lyryYearfortvc^fr, 

riocbmauon MoTkej for eeery 'flunMd 

CTlefferTraft ofAe faW Lin-l -. which Aloi^y llt.Il be piJ by the r«f«ilive Perfon* .h^^ef^.J their H«f 
Am^ni.mour C«-w//a««frr.n/'#rJ^*«j*, oriofwh O.S.et o. Officer, « Ihall be appo.nied"lo 
fame I and ihn 10 be in Lieu of all ot]*c RenH and Servicea wbitfriever. 

In Teftiniony whereof we hart caufed the Seal of o«r faid Province to ht hetr«ni/i affiled 
CENNING WENTWORTtt.Efq(OarCownor..vJC^ma.«)er in O.ief cf Our Jd Pr 
:A*Dty of ,7r^/^r In ihdVear of otff Lard CHlUSF. Of.c Tliouiand Seven Hondred «> 
('-<-. And in the .7^'f'L, --^ \tit of Our Unen. 
By Hit EXCEI.LENCY'jCoihmand, 
With Advice rf:t^ot.wct4 



r<) 



- -t^ ..1.. /•io^'*""'*'- ' / 



THi: ii(>i>i)i;ir\Ks.s ciiAirrKU 



THE CHARTER 27 

out for town lots, each of one acre : 4tli, that 
for four years, the tax on the township 
shall be one ear of Indian corn, to be paid 
on Christmas Day; and 5th, that after that 
time, every proprietor, settler or inhabitant 
shall pay annually on Christmas Day one 
shilling Proclamation Money for every 
hundred acres which he owns, settles or 
possesses. 

The charter was signed by Governor 
Wentworth and by Theodore Atkinson, 
secretary of the colony, on the 24th of Oc- 
tober, 1761. 

On the back of this document were in- 
scribed the names of the grantees, sixty- 
one in number; but two of them held one 
share between them. The seven shares, 
which completed the sixty-seven stated on 
the face of the charter, consisted of one 
for the Society for Propagating the Gos- 
pel in Foreign Parts, one for the School, 
one for the First Settled Minister in com- 
munion with the Church of England, one. 
for a glebe for the Church of England as 
by Law Established,^ and three for His 

* March 3, 1762, Rev. Arthur Browne calls attention of 
S. P. G. to grants of land made by Governor B. Wentworth 



28 HOLDERNESS 

Excellency the Governor. This provision 
of land for the governor appears in most 
of the charters of this period. In Holder- 
ness it amounted to eight hundred acres. 
The endorsement of the charter carefully 
stipulated that this should include "The 
Neck," that is, the great bend of the river, 
in the midst of the fertile intervale; and 
in the accompanying plan this was marked 
"B. W." 

The charter gave the township thus 
erected the name of New Holderness. 

in one hundred towns ; to this, in another letter, he adds 
twenty. "The Governour," he says, "has not only made 
this generous Provision [i. e. for the S. P. G.] but has set 
apart glebes in each of the Towns for the support of the 
ministry of the Church of England; and has also granted an 
equal portion or right to the first settled Minister of the Church 
of England, and his heirs, with the rest of the Proprietors of 
every town for ever." Batchelder's History of Eastern Diocese, 
i, 153. In 1773, the Society appointed Rev. Ranna Cossitt of 
Claremont, with Governor J. Wentworth and Chief Justice 
Livius, attorneys for this land, mentioning, among other places, 
their shares in Holderness. But the Revolution interfered. 



IV 

THE NAME 

THE name of Holderness was well 
known in England, where it belongs 
to that considerable peninsula in the East 
Riding of Yorkshire which juts out into 
the German Ocean above the Humber, 
Kingston is one of dts chief cities. Beverley, 
with its famous minister, is on the western 
border. 

The initial syllable is like that in the 
name of Holland, and means "hollow," 
i. e. low-lying. Ness means "peninsula." 
Der perhaps survives from the ancient 
name of the district in the days of the 
Angles, — Deira.^ In this low-lying penin- 
sula of Deira those Angles had their home, 
whose fair faces and yellow hair attracted 
the attention of Gregory as he walked 
through the slave market of Rome, one day 
late in the sixth century. "Who are you ?" 
he asked; and the Holderness men an- 

* Poulson's Seigniory of Holderness. 



30 HOLDERNESS 

swered, *'We are Angles." *'God grant 
you to be angels," he replied, punning and 
praying in the same breath. "Whence do 
you come.?" "From Deira." "May 
you be delivered from the ire of God." 
And presently he sent Augustine to preach 
the gospel to the English people. 

Domesday Book contains a list of the 
landholders of this old Holderness. The 
district was called a wapentake; the hun- 
dred-acre lots were carucates; and the 
names of Alestan and Ravenchill and 
Aldene and Siward had the places which 
in New Holderness were taken by the 
Livermores, the Shepards, the Coxes and 
the Pipers. 

When Little John in the ballad took 
service with the Sheriff of Nottingham, and 
the sheriff asked him where he belonged, 
he said that his name was Greenleaf and 
that he lived in Holderness. 

"In Holdernesse, sir, I was borne 
I-wys al of my dame; 
Men cal me Reynolde Grenelef 
Whan I am at home." 

There Chaucer laid the scene of the 
Sompnour's Tale. 



\^ 


^ftj^..^l 


:'^IIH^^^' 


^^^^^^^^■■f \. ^T^ 'JSgal^^^^^^^H 


■^^^^K' 


^ "'"^^P 


f^m^mm 


•-i«^M 




h""'' .. SI^SI^BSMii'^i 


^^B':-r • -•■■ 



THE EARL OF HOLDERXf.SS 



THE NAME 31 

" Lordings, there is in Yorkshire, as I gesse 
A marsh con tree ycalled Holdernesse." 

Scott brought from this district one of 
the minor characters of "The Monastery," 
where Sir Percie Shafton turns out to be 
the son of Overstitch the tailor of Holder- 
ness. 

The adjective "new," however, in the 
Charter of 1761, has no reference to the 
country by the Humber. It signifies only 
that a charter for Holderness had been 
given already, ten years before: now the 
town then granted begins anew. The name 
is derived from the Earl of Holderness, who 
in 1751, just at the time of the first grant, 
became a Secretary of State in the English 
Government, and was made responsible 
for the good conduct and welfare of the 
colonies. Benning Wentworth named the 
town in compliment to the new secretary, 
to whom, in common with other colonial 
governors, he made his official reports. 

Robert D'Arcy,^ fourth and last Earl of 
Holderness, was at that time thirty-three 
years of age. His mother's father was the 
Duke of Schomberg, whereby he had for- 

* See under the name. Dictionary of National Biography. 



32 HOLDERNESS 

eign relations of influence. Thus in 1744, 
he was made ambassador to the Republic 
of Venice, and, in 1749, became minister 
plenipotentiary to The Hague. His princi- 
pal house was Hornby Castle, near Leeds, 
now owned by a descendant, the Duke of 
Leeds. He was very fond of plays and 
music, and used to direct masquerades 
and private theatricals. One season, he 
and Lord Middlesex managed the London 
opera. 

Horace Walpole called the earl "a formal 
piece of dulness." But the Duke of New- 
castle, while confessing that he might be 
thought trifling in his manner and carriage, 
maintained that he had a solid understand- 
ing. He was a somewhat silent person, the 
duke added, but very good-natured, endur- 
ing to be told his faults, and, though he was 
a D'Arcy, had no pride about him. In 
1755, he had his portrait painted by Sir 
Joshua Reynolds; this, therefore, repre- 
sents him as he was in the days of the be- 
ginnings of Holderness. 

Parkman quotes from Walpole a page 
about the Holdernesses.^ It was on the 

* Montcalm and Wolfe, ii, 358. 



THE NAME 33 

night when news came that the French had 
failed to retake Quebec. "Last night," he 
says, "I went to see the Holdernesses. I 
met my Lady in a triumphal car . . . with 
Lady Emily. . . . They w'ere going to see 
the bonfire at the alehouse at the corner. 
The whole procession returned with me, 
and from the Countess's dressing-room we 
saw a battery fired before the house, the 
mob crying 'God bless the good news!'" 
Then they amused themselves — this was 
in May — by eating peaches from a hot- 
house, then a new invention and called a 
"Dutch stove." 

The most substantial contribution which 
Lord Holderness made to colonial affairs 
was in 1754, at the beginning of the last 
stage of the French and Indian War. He 
wrote to the governors of the colonies ad- 
vising them to form a union for mutual 
protection and defense. A meeting was 
held at Albany to consider this suggestion, 
and was attended by delegates from seven 
colonies. Theodore Atkinson, who signed 
the Holderness Charter, represented New 
Hampshire. Benjamin Franklin came from 
Pennsylvania. This was the precursor 



34 HOLDERNESS 

of that final union of the colonies which 
constituted the United States of America. 
The delegates did not agree, and nothing 
came of it; but the attempt is to be set 
down to the credit of the good judgment 
of the Earl of Holderness. 

Robert D'Arcy's sons died before him, 
and the title thus became extinct. His 
daughter Amelia married the Marquess of 
Carmarthen, and their son was Duke of 
Leeds. Afterwards, she married Mr. John 
Byron, who, after her death, married Miss 
Gordon, who became the mother of Lord 
Byron. 



THE SETTLEIVIENT 

THE allotment of Holderness, under the 
Charter of 1761, was made in three 
sections. 

The first land to be divided was the in- 
tervale. This was surveyed and planned 
by Abraham Bachelder in the October 
of 1762. The new plan departed from 
the previous division, — into lots of three 
acres, two such lots to each man, — and 
provided for sixty-seven pieces of ground, 
each of eight acres. The arrangement of 
the town stood as in the previous map, the 
one-acre lots being set about Church Hill. 
In the end of October, the proprietors met 
at iJurham, at the inn of Winborn Adams, 
and drew for these parcels of land, which 
were called "lots" from that common cus- 
tom. Afterwards, in 1765, they drew for 
places in the first division of hundred-acre 
lots, between Little Squam and the river. 
Finally, in 1774, they drew for the hundred- 



36 HOLDERNESS 

acre lots of the second division, around 
Big Squam, north and south. Winborn 
Adams's tavern is still standing, beside the 
Oyster River, in the village of Durham, 
across the road from the monument erected 
by the State in memory of General Sullivan. 
Some of the original proprietors were 
friends and relatives of the governor. 
There was his brother, Mark Hunking 
Wentworth, who made a comfortable for- 
tune by providing the royal navy with 
masts from the New Hampshire woods; 
with several other Wentworths, Major 
John, and two Samuels, one "of Boston;" 
and Theodore Atkinson, his brother-in- 
law, secretary of the colony, who left money 
to St. John's Church in Portsmouth, the 
income to be used in providing for a distri- 
bution of bread among the poor, on Sun- 
days. There were persons of distinction 
and influence in the province : John Down- 
ing, member of the Council, Richard 
Wibird, judge of probate, whose father 
was King's Poulterer; the Rev. Arthur 
Browne, rector of the Portsmouth parish; 
and Samuel Livermore, his son-in-law, 
judge advocate of the admiralty court. 




Fold-out 
Placeholder 



This fold-out is being digitized, and will be inserted 

future date. 



THE SETTLEMENT 37 

Most of these names appear in the proprie- 
tors' Hsts of other townships of the time.' 
Few of them had any intention of becom- 
ing citizens of Holderness. Some of the 
land thus granted was forfeited by failure 
to clear it according to the requirements of 
the charter; some of it was sold for taxes. 

The governor's three shares came pre- 
sently into the possession of Samuel Liver- 
more. When Benning Wentworth died, in 
1770, having been deprived of his office for 
reasons among which this quiet appropria- 
tion of township lands had a conspicuous 
place, it was found that he had left all his 
estates to his widow, Martha Hilton, whose 
marriage is described in the "Tales of a 
Wayside Inn." This so displeased his rela- 
tives that his nephew and successor, John 
Wentworth, declared the title to all the 
Governor's Farms, as they were called, to 
be null and void. Thus these lands were 
restored to the king, and John Wentworth 
regranted them in the king's name. The 
Governor's Farm in Holderness came in 

1 January 7, 1797, tracts of land being part of the real estate 
of the late M. H. Wentworth, deceased, were advertised for sale. 
They were in twenty-four townships. 



38 HOLDERNESS 

this way into Samuel Livermore's hands, 
on payment of £50 for the eight hundred 
fertile acres. 

Among the other grantees, one notices 
several family groups : three Ellisons, three 
Bamfords, four Simpsons, six Shepards, 
seven Coxes. A further study of the list 
discloses the fact that these families and 
others were neighbors at Durham, and 
that they there belonged to the parish of 
the Rev. Hugh Adams, the first settled 
minister of that place, and grandfather 
of Winborn Adams, the innholder. The 
parish records show that Parson Adams 
baptized children of Robert Bamford, 
of Joseph Ellison, of Samuel Shepherd, of 
John Shepherd; he married William Wil- 
liams and Sarah Bamford, and Samuel 
Shepherd and Margaret Creighton, in 
1726, and Samuel Shepherd, their son, and 
Elizabeth Hill, in 1761, and William Kel- 
sey and Margaret Hay; he baptized 
Thomas Willey and Derry Pitman. The 
Lanes were Durham people. Hercules 
Mooney was the schoolmaster. A more 
extended examination would probably find 
still others among the first proprietors who 



THE SETTLEMENT 39 

lived on the banks of the Oyster River in 
the village of Durham. These, however, 
are enough to show not only that Holder- 
ness was a colony from Durham, but that 
the colonists w^ere mostly of Puritan train- 
ing in religion. Adams was a Puritan par- 
son. 

The provision of shares of land for the 
Church of England was not infrequent in 
New Hampshire, w^here both the Went- 
worths. Penning and John, were members 
of that communion, together with other 
official and eminent persons of Portsmouth. 
Of the actual settlers, however, very few 
were churchmen, even in Holderness. And 
Holderness was almost alone in the colony 
in having a town minister in communion 
with the English Church. Starr King, in 
his "White Hills," refers to an expectation 
of the first settlers that Holderness would 
sometime be the chief city of New England, 
Boston, they admitted, had certain com- 
mercial advantages, and would probably 
continue to be an important, though some- 
what vulgar, Puritan town; but Holder- 
ness would be the social centre, the aris- 
tocratic metropolis. This prophecy has 



40 HOLDERNESS 

lingered in the neighborhood as a dim tra- 
dition since a time beyond the memory of 
the oldest inhabitant, and has been treated 
by some with an over-serious derision. It 
probably began with the vivacious Mrs. 
Livermore, — the daughter of the Rev. 
Arthur Browne, — who had a merry dis- 
respect for Puritans, which she was at 
no pains to conceal. She first uttered that 
impossible forecast in order to dismay some 
solemn person who had no sense of humor. 
It was also Mrs. Livermore, in all likeli- 
hood, who made over Parson Adams's 
flock in Holderness into a parish of the 
Episcopal Church. She had already 
brought her husband into the church, and 
she showed the same zeal in bringing her 
neighbors. 

The proprietors were called to order at 
their first meeting by Thomas Shepard, who 
was named as moderator in the charter. 
They chose three selectmen to administer 
the affairs of the new township, of whom 
Thomas Shepard was one, and Samuel 
Shepard, 3d, another. The family name is 
perpetuated in Shepard Hill. 

Thomas Shepard, with Thomas Ellison, 



THE SETTLEMENT 41 

his brother-in-law, and Samuel Lane, the 
surveyor, visited Holderness in 1750. They 
cut their initials on a white oak by the falls 
in the Pemigewasset, and on a white pine 
six miles south, near the junction of the 
Pemigewasset and the Squam, and thus 
established the boundaries of the township. 
They are the first men whose names are 
definitely connected with the place. 
Thomas presented the petition to the gov- 
ernor, in reply to which the first charter 
was granted. 

Samuel Shepard presently became clerk 
of the proprietors; and when the town 
meetings began, he was elected clerk of the 
town, in which office he continued for forty- 
one years. When Holderness was settled, 
he established himself on the west side of 
Owl Brook, where three roads meet, one to 
the mill at Ashland, one to Plymouth, one 
to Squam Bridge. There, in a house still 
standing, he kept an inn. After 1785, the 
town meetings were regularly held at his 
house. The inn was the social and political 
and commercial centre of the colonial town. 
There were made their bargains; there all 
public notices were posted; there all 



42 HOLDERNESS 

strangers stopped, with the news of the 
great world. Shepard was a person of in- 
dependent mind, which he showed by a 
hearty disapproval of the American Revo- 
lution. To his last day he maintained his 
allegiance to the English crown. He de- 
tested Napoleon Bonaparte; and the walls 
of his parlor were covered with caricatures 
of that eminent disturber of the peace of 
Europe. It may have been by reason of 
Shepard's English sympathies that in 1812, 
when hatred of England was particularly 
bitter in these parts, a proposition was 
made by some to change the place of hold- 
ing the town meetings; ^ but the motion 
did not prevail, and the meetings continued 
at his house until his death in 1817. Some 
political differences may have occasioned a 
petition and a counter petition in 1789, one 
asking that Samuel Shepard be appointed 
a justice of the peace, and the other pro- 
testing that there were already two such 
oflScials in the town, 

Shepard was eminently fitted for the post 
of clerk by his habits of accuracy, his know- 
ledge of surveying, and his uncommonly 

» N. H. Town Papers, xvi, 230. 



THE SETTLEMENT 41 

his brother-in-law, and Samuel Lane, the 
surveyor, visited Holderness in 1750. They 
cut their initials on a white oak by the falls 
in the Pemigewasset, and on a white pine 
six miles south, near the junction of the 
Pemigewasset and the Squam, and thus 
established the boundaries of the township. 
They are the first men whose names are 
definitely connected with the place. 
Thomas presented the petition to the gov- 
ernor, in reply to which the first charter 
was granted. 

Samuel Shepard presently became clerk 
of the proprietors; and when the town 
meetings began, he was elected clerk of the 
town, in which oflSce he continued for forty- 
one years. When Holderness was settled, 
he established himself on the west side of 
Owl Brook, where three roads meet, one to 
the mill at Ashland, one to Plymouth, one 
to Squam Bridge. There, in a house still 
standing, he kept an inn. After 1785, the 
town meetings were regularly held at his 
house. The inn was the social and political 
and commercial centre of the colonial town. 
There were made their bargains; there all 
public notices were posted; there all 



42 HOLDERNESS 

strangers stopped, with the news of the 
great world. Shepard was a person of in- 
dependent mind, which he showed by a 
hearty disapproval of the American Revo- 
lution. To his last day he maintained his 
allegiance to the English crown. He de- 
tested Napoleon Bonaparte; and the walls 
of his parlor were covered with caricatures 
of that eminent disturber of the peace of 
Europe. It may have been by reason of 
Shepard's English sympathies that in 1812, 
when hatred of England was particularly 
bitter in these parts, a proposition was 
made by some to change the place of hold- 
ing the town meetings; ^ but the motion 
did not prevail, and the meetings continued 
at his house until his death in 1817. Some 
political differences may have occasioned a 
petition and a counter petition in 1789, one 
asking that Samuel Shepard be appointed 
a justice of the peace, and the other pro- 
testing that there were already two such 
officials in the town. 

Shepard was eminently fitted for the post 
of clerk by his habits of accuracy, his know- 
ledge of surveying, and his uncommonly 

' N. H. Town Papers, xvi, 230. 



THE SETTLEMENT 43 

legible writing. He is still dimly remem- 
bered as a picturesque figure, especially on 
Sundays, when he wore his wedding coat, 
light blue with buff facings, with long tails 
and flapped pockets, surmounting a waist- 
coat of red plush. In his vast pockets he 
carried a store of apples for the solace of 
small boys. 

The first care of the proprietors, after 
the division of the land and the choice of 
oflficers, was to make a way of getting from 
Durham to their new possessions. There 
was already a road from Durham to Can- 
terbury, Canterbury having been settled in 
1727 by Durham men. They therefore 
empowered Hercules Mooney "to imploy 
a Pilot to find out a good and convenient 
place for a Road to be cleared from Can- 
terbury to New Holderness." In 1766 the 
making of such a road was said to be agree- 
able to an act of the General Court of the 
Province, and it is thenceforth called the 
Province Road. They were still at work 
upon it in 1769, when it was voted to pay 
each laborer four shillings a day, and the 
same amount for his time in journeying 
from Durham and back again. This is the 



44 HOLDERNESS 

road which still comes up from Canterbury 
through Northfield, across the Winnepe- 
saukee River, through Sanbornton and 
Meredith Centre, across a corner of the 
township of Centre Harbor, through New 
Hampton, along Long Pond, between 
Long and Hawkins Ponds and Beech and 
Fogg Mountains to Ashland, thence to 
Plymouth along the east bank of the river. 
It was for the most part a valley road, along 
the Merrimac and the Pemigewasset. 

Hercules Mooney,^ who was thus en- 
gaged in the business of the Province Road, 
was one of the most interested and active of 
the early settlers. In a petition which he 
and others made to the governor to extend 
the time for clearing and planting the land, 
he says ^ we "have nothing more at heart 
than to complete the settlement of said 
town, and have already got twenty families 
there, and hope soon to see it in a flourish- 
ing condition." Mooney had been a vol- 
unteer in the French and Indian War and 
had taken with him his two young sons. He 
was at Fort William Henry when it was 

* Lucien Thompson, in Granite Monthly, March, 1901. 
2 N. H. Town Papers, ix, 396. 



THE SETTLEMENT 45 

captured by Montcalm, and was one of 
that unfortunate company who, as they 
marched out unarmed under the protection 
of a French safe-conduct, were furiously 
attacked by the Indians. After that he re- 
turned to his school-teaching until the be- 
ginning of the War of Independence, when 
he reentered the military service with the 
rank of lieutenant-colonel. In 1777, at the 
evacuation of Ticonderoga, he lost his 
horse and most of his clothes and camp 
equipage, for which he was partially re- 
compensed by the General Assembly.^ 
After the war he resumed his place behind 
the teacher's desk. Tall and lank, and 
bronzed with exposure, the hero of two 
wars, he must have commanded the respect 
and prompt obedience of the boys. He con- 
tinued to live at Durham till 1785, when he 
removed to Holderness. He died in 1800, 
and is buried in Ashland, east of the village 
about half a mile, between .Squam River 
and Thompson Street, under an old willow 
by the water, on Mr. S. H. Baker's farm. 
The gravestone is an unhewn slab, bearing 
neither name nor date. 

1 N. H. Toum Papers, xii, 227. 



46 HOLDERNESS 

The Province Road having thus given ac- 
cess to Holderness by the way of the rivers, 
another thoroughfare was presently planned 
by the way of the lakes. John Wentworth, 
who succeeded his uncle Benning as gov- 
ernor of New Hampshire in 1768, had a 
country house at Wolfeborough. He was 
greatly interested in the founding of Dart- 
mouth College, to which, by his influence, 
the province gave a great tract of land. In 
April, 1771, shortly before the first com- 
mencement of that institution, an act of 
the Governor, Council and Assembly set 
forth the great public utility of roads in 
general, and in particular the advantage to 
Dartmouth of the construction of a con- 
venient highway to the college, and pro- 
vided that a road be laid out three rods 
wide from Wolfeborough to Hanover. 
Joseph Senter, of Centre Harbor, Samuel 
Shepard, town clerk of Holderness, and 
David Copp were appointed to lay out that 
part of the road which lay between the 
governor's house and the Pemigewasset 
River near the mouth of Baker's River; that 
is, at Plymouth. It was to run through 
Wolfeborough, Tuftonborough, Moulton- 



THE SETTLEMENT 47 

borough, New Holderness, and Plymouth; 
thence another committee was to carry it to 
Hanover. John House, Jonathan Freeman, 
and David Hobart were charged with the 
construction of the Hanover division. This 
was substantially the highway which is still 
called the College Road.^ 

The governor and sixty gentlemen at- 
tended the first commencement at the end 
of August in that year. But the College 
Road was not yet opened. The surveyors 
did not make their report until September. 
They then declared that they had marked 
it out and that it was "capable of being 
made a good road." From Senter's, they 
said, they went eight and a half miles to 
Shepard's; from Shepard's, a mile and a 
half to Judge Livermore's; thence two 
miles and a quarter to the river at the en- 
trance of Mill Brook. In 1772, the road 
was so far cleared that it was passable 
for horsemen, and the governor and his 
staff, who had previously gone from Wolfe- 
borough to Haverhill, and so to Hanover, 
now went by the way of Plymouth. "I 
purpose," writes Governor Wentworth to 

* Parker's History of Wolfeborough, pp. 65, 66. 



48 HOLDERNESS 

President Wheelock,^ "to set out from this 
place [Wolfeborough] the first fair day after 
the 20th inst. [that is, of August]. At Ply- 
mouth we shall make due inquiry and if 
tolerably practicable prefer the College 
Road lately laid out by authority.'* He 
sent at the same time the following^ names 
of gentlemen who wauld accompany him: 
"the Honorable Mark Hunking Went- 
worth, Esq., George Jaffrey, Esq., Daniel 
Rogers, Esq., Peter Gilman, Esq., the 
Honorable John Wentworth, Esq., Speaker 
of the Assembly, Major Samuel Hobart, 
Esq., John Giddings, Esq., Col. John 
Phillips, Esq., John Sherburne, Esq., 
member of Assembly, John Fisher, Esq., 
Collector of Salem, Col. Nathaniel Folsom, 
Esq., Rev. Dr. Langdon of Portsmouth, 
Rev. Mr. Emerson of HoUis, Dr. Cutter, 
Dr. Brackett, Samuel Penhallow, Esq., 
William Parker, Esq., Benjamin Whiting, 
Esq., High Sheriff of Hillsboro County, 
Hon. Samuel Holland, Esq., of Canada, 
Thomas McDonogh, Esq., Secretary to 
the Governor." "There may possibly be 
ten more," he said. 

^ Chase's History of Hanover, pp. 176, 235. 



THE SETTLEMENT 49 

These were the gentlemen, then, who 
rode with the governor, in the August of 
1772, along the forest path beside the 
Holderness lakes. The first named was the 
governor's father, who appears in the list 
of the original proprietors. Dr. Cutter was 
the governor's best friend, to whom, when 
they were lads together, Wentworth wrote 
amusing descriptions of his undergraduate 
life at Harvard.^ " The College," he said, 
*'is now filled up (allmost) of Boys from 
11 to 14 years old and them [they.?] seem 
to be quite void of the Spirit and life which 
is a general concomitant of youth, so you 
may judge what kind of life I now live, 
who was wont to live in the gayest and 
most jovial manner. . . . Should you go 
into a Company of SchoUars now, you'd 
hear disputes of Original Sin, actual Trans- 
gression and such like instead of the 
sprightly turns of Wit and Gay repartees 
which the former Companys used to have." 
This was in February, 1754. In May of 
that year he wrote, "As to Cambridge it is 
as barren of news as Portsmouth for there 
is none stirring here except thatCommence- 

* Parker's History of Wolfeborotigh, pp. 56, 57. 



50 HOLDERNESS 

merit is to be new stile this year, at which 
time shall be glad to see you here to Cele- 
brate my entrance upon the last year of my 
Pilgrimage among the Heathen." The 
"new stile" is the adoption of the Gre- 
gorian Calendar, whereby, in 1752, the 
almanac had been corrected by the omis- 
sion of ten days. The Rev. Mr. Emerson 
was a collateral ancestor of the philosopher, 
and had a famous boys' school in his house. 
Mr. Holland made the first map on which 
Squam Lake is designated by that name. 

The governor came again over the Col- 
lege Road in 1773, to the third com- 
mencement, where he heard an oration 
in Hebrew on the Sublimity of the Old 
Testament. 

The reference which Hercules Mooney 
made to the twenty families who were al- 
ready settled here while he was residing 
at Durham indicates a distinction between 
the proprietors and the inhabitants. Only 
a few of the proprietors actually took up 
their residence on the land. Thus the first 
settler was William Piper, whose name 
does not appear in the list of original 
grantees. William Piper lived in Stratham, 



THE SETTLEMENT 51 

where he married John Shepard's daugh- 
ter Susanna. John Shepard had been a 
ranger with Robert Rogers, and had fur- 
ther shown a courageous spirit by eloping 
with Susanna Smith. When the War of 
Independence came on, he purposed to 
remain neutral, but was arrested by over- 
zealous patriots and put on parole at Exe- 
ter. This so altered his ideals of neutrality 
that on being released he promptly donned 
the uniform of the British service. He was 
killed in action on shipboard off the Grand 
Menan. His daughter Susanna, on her 
marriage to William Piper, had her father's 
lot for dowry. It lay between Squam Lake 
and White Oak Pond, on the west side of 
the connecting brook. There, in 1763, they 
built a cabin and set up housekeeping, and 
thus began the actual settlement of Holder- 
ness. 

By 1771, there were so many settlers out- 
side the number of original grantees that 
they felt the need of a local administra- 
tion of their affairs. Accordingly, they 
addressed a petition to Samuel Livermore, 
one of the proprietors and one of His 
Majesty's justices of the peace, setting forth 



52 HOLDERNESS 

that *'the subscribers labor under great 
inconvenience for want of town officers 
and other regulations." Twelve names 
were signed to this petition, and when 
the first town meeting was held, a few 
months later, most of them were elected to 
office. Nathaniel Thompson was chosen 
moderator; Samuel Shepard, town clerk; 
Andrew Smythe, Joseph Hicks, and Charles 
Cox, selectmen; Samuel Curry, constable; 
Charles Cox, sealer of leather; Richard 
Shepard and Thomas Yokes, surveyors of 
highways; Thomas Shepard and John 
Heron, hogreeves; Charles Cox, Jr., tith- 
ing man; John Shaw, fence viewer; Sam- 
uel Gains, — at whose house the meeting 
was held, — pound keeper; and Bryan 
Sweeney, field driver. 

Nathaniel Thompson,^ the moderator, 
was the town miller. After the proprietors 
had provided for a road, their next thought 
was for a mill. An excellent site was af- 
forded by the falls of the Squam River, in 
the heart of what is now the village of Ash- 
land. In 1767, the proprietors appointed 
a committee to let out the mill privileges on 

' Lucien Thompson, in Granite Monthly, March, 1901. 



THE SETTLEI^IENT 53 

the Squam Stream, as they called it, and 
the committee offered a grant of land to 
whomsoever should "arect" a sawmill and 
a gristmill. Thompson, a Durham man, 
called in various conveyances of land, 
"trader," "shipwright," and "gentleman," 
accepted this offer, and built these mills 
and settled beside them. The Thompson 
House, at the corner of Thompson Street, 
marks the place. These industries were 
begun in 1770 or 1771. Before that, corn 
was taken to be ground at Canterbury, 
along a way which was marked by blazed 
trees. 

Andrew Smythe, the selectman, and 
Samuel Shepard, the clerk, were the first 
wardens of the Holderness church. In this 
capacity they were appealed to in 1789 with 
reference to the election of the first bishop 
of what was then called the Eastern Dio- 
cese, including New Hampshire and Mas- 
sachusetts. The clergy, it appeared, had 
got together and elected Mr. Bass to be the 
bishop without consulting the laity. The 
wardens of Newburyport. very properly pro- 
tested, and asked the wardens of parishes 
in the two states to join them in such action. 



54 HOLDERNESS 

Smythe and Shepard replied for the con- 
gregation at Holderness.^ They note that 
the letter which was sent from Boston on 
the 30th of August was received in Holder- 
ness on the 12th of September. They hope 
that the brethren of the clergy "have not 
in contemplation any system of ecclesiasti- 
cal government subversive of the freedom 
and true interest of our Church." And they 
express themselves as well pleased with the 
protest and glad to be of any farther ser- 
vice. Happily, the clergy came to a better 
mind, invited the laity to join with them, 
and together they elected Mr. Bass in a 
manner acceptable to all concerned. An- 
drew Smythe's daughter, Martha, taught 
the school, and afterwards married the 
minister, and is buried beside him in the 
graveyard by Squam Bridge. 

Bryan Sweeney, the field driver, with 
twenty-seven others, petitioned, in due 
course of time, that Holderness be per- 
mitted to send a representative to the Gen- 
eral Court, aflfirming that "it is likely to 
become the most considerable town in that 
part of the country." Sweeney's name indi- 

* Addison's Lije of Bishop Bass, p. 282. 



THE SETTLEMENT 55 

cates that he was one of that body of emi- 
grants from the north of Ireland who came 
over to this colony in 1720, and intro- 
duced Irish potatoes into New Hampshire. 
Smythe, too, was an Irishman, having been 
born "in the Kingdom of Ireland, in the 
Province of Canaught:" so wrote the town 
clerk on the occasion of his death in 1812. 

Samuel Curry, in 1776, went on an er- 
rand to the General Court to procure 
' * musquet-balls . " ^ " We inhabitants of the 
town of New Holderness," so ran the peti- 
tion which he bore, "having gained intelli- 
gence that a considerable part of our army 
in Canada have lately been forced by our 
unnatural ennemies (the British troops in 
s'd Canada) to retreat and relinquish their 
Ground, and apprehending ourselves in the 
greatest danger from the s'd Troops and 
scouting Parties of Indians that may be 
sent down to annoy and destroy us: and 
being in no Capacity for Defence, do in be- 
half of the s'd Town pray your Honours to 
send us by the Bearer hereof, Mr. Samuel 
Curry, the necessary powder, Musquet 
Balls and Flints for 33 able and effective 

' N. H. Tovm Papers, xii, 227. 



56 HOLDERNESS 

men (belonging to the s'd Town) who are 
ready with their Lives and Fortunes to 
assert and maintain the American Cause: 
and we your humble petitioners as soon as 
may be will pay to your Honours, or the 
Committee of Safety for the time being, an 
Equivalent for the same." The General 
Court gave Curry twenty-five dollars and 
twenty-five pounds of powder. 

Thus the echoes of that great storm 
rolled along these distant hills. The town 
meetings proceeded in their quiet way, and 
their minute book is almost as remote as 
an abbey chronicle from the events of 
the world without. In 1775, the call for 
the town meeting was headed as usual, 
"Province of New Hampshire;" in 1776, it 
was dated simply, "New Hampshire;" in 
1777, it was "State of New Hampshire." 
Thus the great change was noted in the 
book. 

The settlers were busy with their farms. 
The plan set forth in the charter to have a 
central town, in which the settlers should 
live in one community, and out of which 
they should go to work on the ploughed 
land and in the woods, was never carried 



THE SETTLEI^IENT 57 

into effect. If it could have been accom- 
plished in our settlements it would have 
made a great difference in the social life of 
our New England farmers. It would have 
saved the country people from the ills of 
isolation. As it was, they lived apart. Even 
the small intervale lots by the river seem 
not to have been much built upon. The 
settlement began, as we have seen, in the 
very midst of the township, and the settlers 
established themselves on the hundred- 
acre holdings. 

The town was so poor that the only ac- 
tion which was taken at the first town 
meeting, after the election of oflBcers, .was 
to vote to raise no money for that year. 
And such a resolution appears on the min- 
utes several times. The first motion to 
build a school was defeated; so was the 
first motion to open a new road. They did 
vote c£30 to build a church, but they did 
not build it; and the next year they recon- 
sidered their action, and for money sub- 
stituted labor, boards, and shingles. Even 
then, the church was not begun. In 1773, 
the wages of a laborer were two shillings 
and three pence a day; in 1782, they had 



58 HOLDERNESS 

advanced to three shillings; in 1791, to 
five. In 1788, it was voted to employ a 
teacher at a salary of $170 a year, and a 
minister at a salary of $200; each to be 
paid in produce. This was a fair remuner- 
ation according to the standards of the 
time. In 1792, Ebenezer Allen, town min- 
ister of Wolfeborough, was promised a 
salary of forty-five pounds; one third in 
cash, one third in grass-fed beef at twenty 
shillings a hundred, and one third in corn 
at three shillings, or in rye at four shillings 
a bushel; with twenty-five cords of wood. 
The minister in Holderness, as elsewhere, 
had his lot of land. In 1781, the town of 
Holderness was supporting a poor woman 
named Margaret Lyons at five shillings a 
week. This included all the necessaries and 
none of the luxuries, and probably repre- 
sents the minimum cost of living at that 
time. 

In 1784, the electors were summoned to 
vote for a president; that is, for a president 
of New Hampshire, for by that title the 
governor was at first distinguished from his 
predecessors, the appointees of the crown. 
In 1785, there were sixteen men at the 



THE SETTLEMENT 



59 



town meeting, and they all voted for the 
Hon. Samuel Livermore for president. In 
1788, it was agreed that the Rev. Robert 
Fowle be made the minister of the town, 
provided that he receive Episcopal ordina- 
tion; they voted to clear the minister's lot, 
and to build him a parsonage and a barn. 

Thus appear the two men about whom 
the life of the little town centred thence- 
forth, Samuel Livermore, the squire, and 
Robert Fowle, the parson. 



Note. —The following names of grantees are taken from the list 
on the back of the charter. 



Majr JohnWentnorth 

Thomas Harvey 

Robert Harvey 

Joseph Sheppard 

Joseph Baker 

Nicholas Gookin 

John Muckleroy 

William Simpson, senr 

David Simpson 

William Simpson, junr 

Joseph Simpson 

Sami Wentworth, Esq. 

Murry Hambleton 

Theodore Atkinson, 
Esq'. 

Richd Wibird, Esq. 

John Downing, Esq. 

Mrs. Sarah Mitchell 
( John Kavenah & ) 
\ John Innis ' 

Henry Lane 



Sam' Wentworth, Esq. 

of Boston 
Samuel Sheppard, 3d 
Edward Hall Bergin 
William Curry 
William Kennedy 
Thomas Willie 
John Sheppard, senr 
Thomas Sheppard 
Samuel Sheppard, senr 
Charles Bamford 
Joseph Ellison 
Richard Ellison 
William Ellison 
Robert Bamford 
William Smith 
William Campbell 
William Garrow 
Henry Wallis 
Revd Arthur Brown 
Henry Hill 
John Sheppard, junr 



William Kelley 
Thomas Vokes 
James KieUey 
Wm. Cox 
Charles Cox 
John Cox 
Edward Cox 
Joseph Cox, 
William Cox, junr 
John Birgin 
Hercules Mooney 
William Williams 
Samuel Lamb 
Charles Cox, junr 
Derry Pitman 
Samuel Livermore 
Charles Bamford, junr 
Mk Hg Wentworth, 

Esq. 
Richard Salter, and 
Joseph Bartlett of 

Newtown. 



VI 

SAMUEL LIVERMORE, THE SQUIRE 

SAMUEL LIVERMORE,^ who pre- 
sently became the largest owner and 
the man of most importance in the commu- 
nity, was one of the nine children of Dea- 
con Samuel Livermore of Waltham, Mass. 
In 1751, being then of the age of nine- 
teen years, he entered Nassau Hall, now 
Princeton University, having previously 
taught school for a year in Chelsea. One 
of his letters of recommendation said that 
he intended to study for the ministry. 

His diary at that time gives several in- 
teresting glimpses of the manners of the 
middle of the eighteenth century. He left 
Boston on the sloop Lydia, having provided 
for his voyage five quarts of West India 
rum, a quarter of a pound of tea, a dozen 
fowls, two pounds of loaf sugar, twenty 

^ For Squire Livemiore see Bench and Bar of N.H.; Bradley 
in N. H. Hist. Soc. Coll. iii, 221; the diary is quoted in Put- 
nam's Magazine, June, 1857. 



SAMUEL LIVERMORE, THE SQUIRE 61 

lemons, and three pounds of butter. In his 
chest, with two "close coats," a greatcoat, 
and other proper clothing, he carried a 
Bible, the New Testament in Latin and 
Greek, a Latin dictionary, Ward's "Intro- 
duction to Mathematics," Gordon's Geo- 
graphy, and copies of Virgil and Tully. 
Stopping at Newport, he purchased a pen- 
knife, a corkscrew, and a buckle-brush. In 
New York he bought two Duke of Cumber- 
land handkerchiefs. On October 3, he 
added to his store a gallon of rum; and on 
the following day bought a "fountain pen," 
and afterwards a sand-box, — for sprink- 
ling sand over a written page to dry the 
ink, — an almanac, and some ink-powder. 
His board cost him eighty cents a week; 
and hickory wood was $1.62 a cord. He 
received his degree in 1752, having been 
examined in Hebrew, Testament, Homer, 
Tully, Horace, Logic, Geography, Astro- 
nomy, Natural Philosophy, Ontology, 
Rhetoric, and Ethics. 

Thus equipped, Livermore made his way 
to Portsmouth, w^as admitted to the bar in 
1756, and in 1759 married Jane Browne, the 
daughter of the rector. In 1764, he moved 



62 HOLDERNESS 

to Londonderry, which place he repre- 
sented in the General Assembly until 1772. 
In 1763, he was the King's Attorney- Gen- 
eral; for which office his salary was <£25, 
with an addition 'of <£45 in fees. It was 
probably by reason of the complications of 
the time that he removed in 1774 from 
Londonderry and came to live upon his 
land in Holderness. For he took no part in 
either the debates or the battles which ac- 
companied the change of government. 

He had by this time added considerably 
to the single share allotted to him by the 
original grant. It was perhaps by reason of 
his friendship with the Wentworths that 
he came into possession of the Governor's 
Farm. That single acquisition made him 
possessor not only of the most extensive 
but of the most fertile estate in the town- 
ship. As early as 1770, he is found petition- 
ing Governor John Wentworth for the 
shares of William Campbell and William' 
Garrow who have forfeited their claims by 
failure to clear and cultivate. Also, in an 
undated petition, he makes a like request 
for the lands of Murray Hamilton and 
Samuel Wentworth. James Kelley's share 



SAMUEL LIVERMORE, THE SQUIRE 63 

he bought for $88.88. The lots of William 
Smith, of the Rev. Arthur Browne, and of 
Samuel Lamb, Livermore or his son pur- 
chased for the taxes. Derry Pitman's pro- 
perty came into their possession. Also, on 
the other side of the river, Judge Livermore 
bought fifteen hundred acres of Colonel 
John Fenton. This was the Fenton who 
owned thirty acres on Bunker's Hill, and 
whose hay Colonel Stark used for breast- 
works in the battle. 

In the midst of the Governor's Farm, 
overlooking the fair valley of the Pemige- 
wasset. Squire Livermore built his great 
house, which remained until a fire de- 
stroyed it in 1882. It was then used by the 
Holderness School, whose present build- 
ings occupy the place. In 1780, the squire 
was busy in his gristmill by the Mill Brook, 
white with flour from head to foot, when 
the commissioners came to summon him 
to be one of the representatives of New 
Hampshire in the Continental Congress. 
In 1782, he was made chief justice of the 
state. In 1788, in the state convention 
assembled to consider the adoption of the 
Constitution of the United States, it was 



64 HOLDERNESS 

Livermore who moved that the Constitu- 
tion be adopted. Eight states had already 
assented: one more was needed to secure 
its adoption, and thus to make the inde- 
pendent states into a nation. With the 
affirmative action on Samuel Livermore's 
motion, this great step was taken. From 
1789 to 1793 he was a representative, and 
from 1793 to 1801 a senator, in the national 
congress. Back and forth he drove, be- 
tween Holderness and Philadelphia, in his 
own carriage, with Major Thomas Shepard 
on the box, a journey of eighteen days. 
Over the College Road, by Squam Bridge 
and Centre Harbor to Wolfeborough, or 
over the Province Road, by the mills at 
Ashland to Canterbury and Concord, the 
great man proceeded on these formidable 
journeys. 

Squire Livermore was almost the only 
one of our Holderness people whose name 
ever got beyond the borders of the state. 
He was our chief citizen, and his memory 
is our best possession. At his mansion on 
the bluff he dispensed a generous hospi- 
tality, practicing the fine but difficult vir- 
tue set forth in the text which is inscribed 



SAMUEL LIVERMORE, THE SQUIRE 65 

on the tombstone of his son, beside the old 
church. "Give alms of thy goods, and 
never turn thy face from any poor man." 
On his kitchen table, there was always a 
great iron basket and a huge pottery 
pitcher, the basket filled with corn-and- 
rye bread, and the pitcher with cider, free 
to all passers-by. 

The old squire's grandson gave me an 
account of an incident which illustrates 
his neighborly leadership. It was told to 
him one Sunday after church by Captain 
James Cox, then an aged man. At the end 
of a good harvest, the captain's barn had 
been struck by lightning and totally de- 
stroyed. The next day, as he stood among 
the ashes, up rode the squire on horseback, 
clapped him on the shoulder with a word 
of cheer, promptly called out all the neigh- 
bors, — the Pipers, the Coxes, the Thomp- 
sons, the Shepards, — sent them into the 
woods for timber, drove to the mill and 
brought down boards, got the barn raised 
and closed in, and then stocked it with 
hay and grain from his own lofts. 

He was a commanding person, not only 
among his simple neighbors but in all com- 



66 HOLDERNESS 

panics. He is remembered, as a judge, to 
have had a fine disdain of precedent even 
when it was of his own making, construct- 
ing the law to suit his sense of justice, as 
he went along. His sons maintained his 
position after him. Arthur became chief 
justice of New Hampshire. Edward St. 
Loe was appointed a judge of the Supreme 
Court; but the "Courier of New Hamp- 
shire," on April 8, 1802, notes that "The 
Hon. Ed. St. Loe Livermore is removed 
from the oflSce of the Customs at Ports- 
mouth by President Jefferson to make 
room for Nathaniel Folsom, Esq., a good 
democrat." Samuel Livermore died in 
1803, and was buried in the graveyard of 
the little church, near his own house. 



VII 

ROBERT FOWLE, THE PARSON 

THE Holderness charter of 1761 pro- 
vided, as we have seen, for the sup- 
port of a minister of the Church of England, 
but a good many years passed before the 
scattered farmers availed themselves of this 
privilege. The town meeting, it is true, 
entered at once upon a discussion of the 
matter. They considered it in 1772. They 
definitely resolved, in 1773, to build a 
church: "36 feet in Length and 30 in 
Breadth, with a 10 foot Post." They voted 
to raise thirty pounds in lawful money for 
the expense of erection. And they fixed 
upon a site, a piece of two acres, east of 
the Province Road, and in the southern 
part of Joseph Hicks's hundred-acre lot. 
There, at a previous meeting, they had 
agreed to establish a graveyard. The next 
year, however, the town meeting recon- 
sidered this appropriation, and voted in- 
stead that "Each inhabitant shall pay his 



68 HOLDERNESS 

equal share in labour, boards, shingles, 
and clapboards, rum and other things that 
shall be needed." The amount of rum 
required for the work of raising a meeting- 
house was stated as ten gallons. 

Nothing came, even then, of these good 
intentions, for in 1781 the Rev. Edward 
Bass of Newburyport — the same for whom 
we found the clergy voting without the laity 
to be the first bishop of these parts — 
wrote thus in a letter to the Society for the 
Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign 
Parts :^ "I am just returned from a journey 
of about an hundred miles into the Pro- 
vince of New Hampshire. . . . Our Church 
increases much in credit and reputation 
among the generality of the People where 
I have been, tho' consisting of a variety 
of Sects, some of them very wild and en- 
thusiastic. ... I baptized about sixty 
children and Adult Persons, near half the 
number at Holderness, a town consisting 
of Church of England People, where in the 
course of a very few years, there will be a 
sufficient Living for a Minister. The Peo- 
ple long for the time when they may be 

* Addison's Life of Bishop Bass, p. 161. 



ROBERT FOWLE, THE PARSON 69 

supplied with one, and are disposed to do 
everything in their power for his support." 
As late as 1790, no church had been erected, 
for in that year the town meeting again 
appointed a committee to determine the 
site of a church building and supervise the 
construction. They voted to raise seventy- 
five pounds in boards at twenty-four shil- 
lings a thousand. 

Indeed, it was not until 1797 that the 
church was built which still stands near 
the Holderness School. In 1803, a second 
church, afterwards burned, was erected 
near Squam Bridge, in a corner of the pre- 
sent graveyard. 

The Rev. Mr. Bass, on his visit to Hol- 
derness in 1781, was no doubt the guest of 
Squire Livermore. Presently, when the 
squire desired a tutor for his son, to whom 
should he more naturally apply than to 
Mr. Bass ? Thus it was, I suppose, that 
Robert Fowle, a young man in Mr. Bass's 
parish at Newbiiryport, came to be a mem- 
ber of the Livermore household, some time 
before 1789. That was the year in which 
the town voted to put him in charge of the 
spiritualities of the place, provided that he 



70 HOLDERNESS 

obtain his ordination from a bishop. This 
he accordingly did, being ordained deacon 
by Bishop Seabury in St. James's Church, 
New London, December 13, 1789, and 
made priest by the same bishop in Boston, 
June 29, 1791. Thereafter, he was called 
Priest Fowle, that being the title which 
was given in parts of New Hampshire 
and Vermont even to ministers of the Con- 
gregational churches. 

By-and-by, Priest Fowle married the 
schoolmistress, Andrew Smythe's daughter 
Martha; being put up to this good deed, 
according to tradition, by the ferry- woman, 
Mrs. Cockran. Mrs. Cockran was one 
day setting the young parson and his horse 
over the river, where there is now a bridge 
to Plymouth. "Mr. Fowle," she said, in 
mid-stream, "you ought to take to your- 
self a wife." "Humph!" said he. "Yes, 
Lady Livermore has too much on her 
hands to take care of yourself and the 
two other gentlemen, and you ought to be 
off, living on your glebe, with a family of 
your own." For at that time the parson 
and his horse were still living at the squire's, 
and the parson's clothes were made from 




THE RFA . HOHKUr FOWLE 



ROBERT FOWLE, THE PARSON 71 

the fleece of the squire's sheep. " Humph!" 
said the young minister, but he followed 
the ferry- woman's counsel. He was then 
about twenty-five years old. He lived to be 
eighty-one, and his wife when she died was 
ninety. 

The minister's lot bordered Little 
Squam on the north, next to the bridge. 
To the west, on the lake, was the glebe 
land; and next to that was the ground as- 
signed to the Society for Propagating the 
Gospel in Foreign Parts. The next lot, 
into which Little Squam thrusts itself in a 
deep bay, belonged to William Curry. A 
spring of clear, cold water, between the 
road and the lake, is still called Curry's 
Spring. It was on the minister's lot that 
Mr. Fowle built his parsonage, on the site 
of the present Central House. It was prob- 
ably on account of the distance between 
the parsonage and the church that the sec- 
ond church was built near by. 

The first church was the property of the 
Livermores. The services had been held 
for some time in a large unfinished room 
of the big house. When the building was 
erected, the various worshipers made their 



72 HOLDERNESS 

contributions, but "they were generally 
small and for specific articles and in their 
aggregate quite insufficient for the object." 
This was Mr. Arthur Livermore's remem- 
brance of the original subscription paper. 
*'The effect upon my mind," he says, "was 
to remit to me the tradition that the Liver- 
mores among them substantially built the 
church and allocated the pews. . . . The 
land on which the church was built . . . 
was never conveyed to Trinity Church. 
It remained in the ownership of the Liver- 
mores." 

Robert Fowle was the pastor of Holder- 
ness for fifty-eight years. He was a grave 
and rather silent man. He wore a black 
coat and a white cravat on week days, and 
a black gown and bands on Sundays. He 
divided his time between the two churches, 
riding over the College Road from one to 
the other, in all kinds of weather. The 
congregation assembled in the churchyard, 
and waited respectfully till the minister ap- 
peared, with his wife upon his right arm 
and his prayer book under his left. A large 
dog marched behind, sober like his master, 
and with a habit of barking at late comers. 





1 -^ .j:-^. 




^Eafcife^ 




S|^f;^l^BIB& 


'•*' J^i 


'^^'^ ^l^^£L.ji-.^.JSfci 


v^ 


F3iir 






WM 


^^iSPSifssS^^^'''' 



THE OLD CHURCH EXIERIOR 




THE OLD CHURCH INTERIOR 



ROBERT FOWLE, THE PARSON 73 

One of the parson's four daughters played 
the bass viol in the choir. The ritual was 
of a very quiet order and the sermon was 
in entire accord with it. The Holy Com- 
munion was celebrated twice a year: at 
the church near the squire's house at 
Christmas, and at the church by the bridge 
at Easter. 

The journals of the diocese^ show that 
Mr. Fowle was a member of the first con- 
vention at Concord, in 1802. He was 
chosen in 1823 a deputy to the General 
Convention which met in Philadelphia. 
In 1829, he said of his church, "It is not 
flourishing, and I think it will not flourish." 
He had then been rector forty years. In 
1831, the prospects were momentarily 
brighter: each of the two churches had a 
Sunday-school, and each school had forty 
scholars. But that year, Mr. Fowle was 
absent from the Convention, and he never 
came again. Indeed, since 1814, he had 
attended only six of these annual assem- 
blies. In 1838, the Rev. Edward Liver- 
more reported to the Convention: "The 

1 Batchelder's Eastern Diocese, i, 262-272, Claremont, N. H., 
1876. 



74 HOLDERNESS 

church has been long established in that 
town, — most of the early settlers being of 
her communion, and the present rector hav- 
ing officiated there more than fifty years. 
Most of the older inhabitants of the town 
retain their reverence and attachment for 
the doctrines and forms of our communion, 
but a large part of their descendants have 
apostasized from the Faith and the Church 
of their Fathers. The remote location of 
the parish from others of our churches, 
and the possession of two places of worship 
in which Divine Services were alternately 
performed, are among the causes of its 
present low condition." In 1841, Bishop 
Griswold said in his Convention Address, 
"Our venerable brother of Holderness has 
for many months been unable to officiate, 
and except some active missionary is sent 
thither, our church in that place will cease 
to be." Mr. Fowle died in 1847, and is 
buried in the graveyard by Squam Bridge. 
The Free Will Baptists,' founded in 1780, 
at New Durham, by Benjamin Randall, 
came over to Holderness in the midst of a 

' Parker's History of Wolfeborough, p. 269; Kelley's History 
of New Hampton, p. 33. 



ROBERT FOWLE, THE PARSON 75 

revival at New Hampton, and established 
a preaching station in 1800. They believed 
in the free payment of ministers as op- 
posed to the collection of the minister's 
salary by taxation. There is no record of 
any such open contention at Holderness 
between their minister and the town min- 
ister as divided society in New Hampton 
and in Wolfeborough; but they quietly 
succeeded, and Mr. Fowle, ill and aged, 
as quietly failed. He preached against 
"enthusiasm," meaning the emotional pre- 
sentation of religion, but the enthusiasts 
prevailed. 



VIII 
THE COUNTRY TOWN 

WITH the death of Mr. Fowle, the 
portion of the history of Holderness 
which may fairly be described as the time 
of the beginnings is concluded. 

Life went on very quietly in the country 
town as the seasons passed. The town 
meeting assembled regularly, as it does to 
this day, on the second Tuesday in March, 
and debated the condition of the roads and 
the levying of the taxes. In 1795, the post- 
master general advertised for proposals 
for carrying the mails from Portsmouth by 
Dover, Rochester, and Moultonborough to 
Plymouth, returning by New Hampton, 
Meredith, Gilmanton, Nottingham, and 
Durham; and from Concord by Plymouth 
to Haverhill. The mail came once a week 
from May to November, and once in two 
weeks from November to May. The news 
of the busy world, the progress of the War 
of Independence, the annals of the estab- 



THE COUNTRY TOWN 77 

lishment of the nation, with dim rumors of 
the lands beyond the ocean, came in the 
pages of the "New Hampshire Gazette," 
which began in 1756, and is still published 
at Portsmouth. 

The "New Hampshire Gazette " in 1802 
contained an advertisement of books, "for 
the amusement and instruction of Young 
People of both Sexes," just received from 
Philadelphia. Among the titles were "The 
Little Teacher," interspersed with cuts, 
"The Troubles of Life," "A Friendly Visit 
to the House of Mourning," "The Story of 
Joseph and his Brethren," "The Canary 
Bird, a Moral Story." A little gleam of 
light appears in a book on "Youthful 
Sports," but this is immediately dimmed 
by "Juvenile Trials, for robbing orchards, 
telling fibs, etc." This sombre aspect of 
life is reflected also in the commencement 
programme of that year at Dartmouth, 
when Arthur Livermore, the squire's son, 
was made an honorary master of arts. 
One of the topics was the question, "Does 
the World tend naturally to Dissolution.?" 

The boys found some excitement in 
hunting bears and wolves. Occasionally, 



78 HOLDERNESS 

when the wolves made themselves more 
than usually obnoxious among the sheep- 
folds, all the farmers would be summoned 
to scour the woods, afterwards celebrating 
the victories of the day by a great feast at 
night. 

There was land to be cleared, and fields 
to be ploughed and planted, and cattle to 
be cared for, and harvests to be gathered. 
The markets were at Newburyport and 
Boston, whither were carried the products 
of the place, — pork and butter, pease and 
beans, and flour. In the winter the driver 
prepared for the journey by putting in a 
store of " mitchin." This was bean porridge 
frozen into a solid lump. When he came 
to an inn, he chopped off a sufficient quan- 
tity for his dinner, and melted it before the 
fire. The country tavern provided shelter 
and drink, but most of the guests brought 
their own food. Tea and coffee were un- 
known in Holderness in the early part of 
the nineteenth century. 

There was a good deal of drinking, but 
its effects were mitigated by the out-door 
life which the men lived. Samuel Shepard 
kept liquor at his inn on the College Road. 



THE COUNTRY TOWN 79 

So did Levi Drew, as early as 1788, at his 
tavern near Long Pond, probably on the 
Province Road. This business was con- 
ducted under an annual license from the 
town. The innholder was permitted to 
sell " rum, wine, gin, brandy or other spirits 
by retail, that is, in less quantity than one 
gallon, and may sell mixed liquors, part of 
which are spirituous." This was the for- 
mula of 1808. Parson Fowle remarks, with- 
out comment, that much of the Holderness 
whiskey was made from potatoes. 

Of serious offenses, there is no record or 
remembrance. There are frequent refer- 
ences to the building of a pound for strayed 
animals, but no mention of a jail for strayed 
men. A curious entry on the last leaf of the 
town-meeting book contains the confession 
of John Bayley and his wife Mehitable, 
that on the 29th of October, 1797, they 
did unlawfully take from the cellar of Mr. 
John Loud ten pounds of butter, and from 
his barn a bag of apples. John and Me- 
hitable had been married the year before 
by Mr. Fowle, and were evidently finding 
it difficult to keep the family expenses 
within their legitimate income. But the 



80 HOLDERNESS 

people in general were sturdy, thrifty, and 
self-respecting farmers. 

There was little wealth in Holderness, 
but little poverty. In 1781, John Ennis 
was paid five shillings a week "for keeping 
and supporting Margaret Lyons in decent 
washing, lodging and victualing." The 
next year they reduced her to four shillings. 
Squire Livermore's account books show 
that the price of oats was two shillings a 
bushel; and of Indian corn, rye, and pease, 
four, five, and six shillings respectively. 
Men who worked on the farms in the sum- 
mer got thirty shillings a month. Mrs. 
Samuel Shepard, when she drew up her 
will, made particular mention not only 
of "my red cloth cloke," but of "my silver 
spoon." 

In 1791, they paid for doctoring Peggy 
Lyons one pound, two shillings and eleven 
pence. At that time, the doctor's usual 
fee was eight pence a visit. Dr. Lee's True 
Billious Pills were advertised in the " Dart- 
mouth Centinel" of 1797 as especially good 
"after a debauch of eating or drinking." 
About the same time there was some dis- 
cussion in the papers as to the virtues of 



THE COUNTRY TOWN 81 

Dr. Perkins's Metallic Instruments for 
rheumatism. 

Some of the old houses still stand strong 
and steadfast, simple and dignified struc- 
tures, denoting the modest prosperity of 
their owners. Beside the doors the house- 
wives of the present generation have 
planted splendid clumps of golden-glow. 
Every year, the dwellings of the summer 
residents increase in number, but they are 
for the most part quiet habitations, on good 
terms with the lakes and the wooded hills. 
The Livermores sold the Governor's Farm 
to Mr. Whiton, from whom it passed to 
Canon Balch of Montreal, and from him 
to the Holderness School. Canon Balch 
had a boys' camp on Chocorua Island, 
whose chapel is still a sanctuary; and his 
example made Squam Lake a favorite 
place for that wholesome form of summer 
life. In 1852, the interests of the great 
world touched these shores for a moment, 
w^hen Harvard and Yale rowed in the first 
intercollegiate regatta at Centre Harbor,^ 
and the captains dined with the Whitons. 

' Dr. J. M. Whiton's Commemoration of tlie First Intercolle- 
giate Regatta, 1903. 



82 HOLDERNESS 

It is remembered that on the day preced- 
ing the race neither crew pulled an oar 
for fear of blistering their hands. The 
War of the Union carried young men from 
Holderness into far fields, from which 
some of them never returned. For several 
summers, John G. Whittier lived among 
these scenes, sometimes at the Sturtevant 
Farm, near Centre Harbor, where he slept 
in Priest Fowle's bed, and is remembered 
by the Whittier Pine,— the "Wood Giant" 
of his verse; sometimes at the Asquam 
House, where he wrote his "Storm on 
Lake Asquam." He glorified with his 
appreciative poetry our wooded shores, 
and green islands, and sunny fields, and 
horizon line of noble hills. He is the poet 
of the ever-increasing company of those who 
have Holderness in their hearts, for whom 
this book is written. 



APPENDIX 

WALKS AND DRIVES IN THE NEIGHBOR- 
HOOD OF HOLDERNESS 

BY 

FREDERICK LEWIS ALLEN 



APPENDIX 

VIEW FROM THE SHEPARD HILL 

{From tlie roof of the Asquam House) 

ABOUT west is Holderness village, to the right 
of which rise the Domes. Over these hills is 
the blue peak of Mt. Stinson, with a little of Mt. Carr 
over it. North of the " Domes " is Mt. Livermore, 
with Prospect's huge bulk farther away and to the 
right, and nearer at hand lies the broad southwest 
bay of the lake. From Mt. Livermore northward the 
long Squam Range extends, with the twin Rattle- 
snakes below its right portion, and with the lofty 
ridge of Sandwich Dome looming over it, nearly over 
the towers of the Mt. Livermore House, across the 
lake. To the right of Sandwich Dome are the ridges 
and double peak of WTiiteface, while nearer and 
farther to the right is the dark notched dome of 
Israel. Paugus and Chocorua, the latter with its 
white peak, come next, over Mooney's Point. Just 
to the right of Chocorua a tiny bit of the Green Hills 
near Conway may be seen. 

Red Hill is considerably to the right of these 
mountains, and only about six miles away. The 



86 APPENDIX 

lake, dotted with islands, is spread out below. 
Over the right flank of Red Hill is the blue mass 
of Ossipee, while farther to the right and much 
nearer are the low dark ridges of Sunset Hill. The 
gaze next falls on White Oak Pond, with the deli- 
cate blue peak of the Copple Crown over its left end, 
and the Belknap Mountains over its central portion. 
Farther to the right is Beech Hill, sloping off sharply 
to the left, and then the view is shut out by the 
near-by mass of Leavitt Hill, about south. Little 
Squam Lake is about southwest, while over it are 
the Bridgewater Hills, the distant Mt. Cardigan, 
bulky Plymouth Mountain, and Church Hill, with 
Tenney Hill over it. Then the more distant outlook 
is shut out by the low hills over Holderness village. 

THE DOMES 

Of these three or four wooded peaks none are 
worth ascending except Peak of Fayal. Cotton 
Mountain, the highest, and Kesumpe, farthest to the 
northeast, have been frequently climbed, but there is 
no outlook from their wooded summits. Peak of 
Fayal is topped by an observatory which commands 
one of the most picturesque views about Squam 
Lake. It is ascended by a road starting in just 
opposite Smith Piper's Store, next to the Central 
House. Follow this road to the summit, being care- 
ful not to lose it where it bends sharply to the right 
in the highest fields, and you will be rewarded by a 



UMfUWl 




Best l^oa45 



IHK XEIGHBORHOC 




lOF IIOLDKHXESS 



APPENDIX 87 

rich prospect from the observatory. To the north 
and west are the wild, wooded, picturesque domes, 
between which are the great bulky form of Prospect 
and glimpses of the higher peaks beyond. To the 
west and south are Mts. Stinson and Carr, Mt. 
Cuba, Mt. Cardigan, Plymouth Mountain and the 
Bridgewater Hills and Leavitt Hill, over which is 
Beech Hill (in this order from right to left). To 
the northeast the Squam Range bends about the 
lake with Chocorua's blanched spire beyond, over 
the Rattlesnakes. But the most beautiful sight is the 
lakes. The bays of Great Squam reach up just be- 
low the peak, and the winding outlet may be fol- 
lowed till it flows into Little Squam. The rugged 
domes and the placid lake give a most vivid con- 
trast, and it is this that lends charm to the view. 

THE SQUAM RANGE 

The Squam Range is a long ridge running from 
the southern end of Sandwich Notch a little south of 
west to Mt. Morgan, its highest point, thence about 
southwest to the " Hardscrabble " or " Mountain " 
road just north of Mt. Livermore. There are sev- 
eral points of nearly equal height on the range. The 
easternmost is a rounded summit called Sandwich 
Mountain on the maps (height about 2100 ft.), 
then come two wooded peaks known as Double- 
head (2000 ft.), on whose slopes are fields reaching 
to within a quarter of a mile of the summit, and 



88 APPENDIX 

finally the high knubbles of Morgan, the southern- 
most being 2162 ft. high. The long Hardscrabble 
ridge to the south is only about 1900 ft. high. 

A very interesting and beautiful, though rather 
diflScult, walk is enjoyed by leaving the main road 
at Etheridge's farmhouse, at the foot of Doublehead, 
and going at first through woods and pastures, then 
following the open fields to their upper edge, and 
ascending the left peak of Doublehead through the 
ravine between the peaks; walking thence along 
the ridge to Morgan, and from Morgan down to the 
open fields high above the Wallace farm. This walk 
may be taken the other way, but it is not advisable. 

To ascend Mt. Morgan from the Wallace farm, 
back of the Rattlesnakes, inquire for a path going 
through the "sap-yard," to the site of an old farm. 
Beyond the old farm keep up to the upper left-hand 
corner of the fields, then go through the woods 
either by the ravine to the hollow between Morgan 
and East Morgan, or diagonally, due west, to the 
southern spurs of Morgan, and thence up. 

The Views. From Doublehead, one of the most 
beautiful prospects of the lake is enjoyed, and in 
addition there is a fine vista between Sandwich 
Dome and Weetamoo, and a wild and picturesque 
view of these mountains. 

Over the right flank of Squam Range are Stinson 
and Carr, then come Campton and Weetamoo, 
across the valley, over which are Kineo and the 
lofty Moosilauke ridge. To the right of Weetamoo 



APPENDIX 89 

come, in turn, Kinsman, with Cannon's hump be- 
low, the rocky slopes of Welch, Tecumseh with its 
knob, and Osceola with its flattened top. 

Between Welch and Tescumseh are Flume and 
Lincoln of the distant Franconia range. Sandwich 
Dome's vast bulk is just across the Beebe River 
valley, to the right of which are Whiteface, Passa- 
conaway over its shoulder, Sandwich Mountain of 
the Squam Range, dark Israel, and the southern 
ridge of Chocorua. 

The distant southern peaks are as follows: — 
West Uncanoonuc — over Oak Hill, Meredith, 
and East Rattlesnake. 

Joe English Hill — over Hodges Cove, Lake 
Asquam. 

Pack Monadnock, Temple Mountain, and Kid- 
der Mountain, grouped together — over White Oak 
Pond and Beech Hill. 

Crotchet Mountain — just to the right of the 
latter peaks. 

Monadnock Mountain — just to the left of Kear- 
sarge in southern New Hampshire and over the 
Leavitt Hill. 

From Morgan. Lincoln and Lafayette are just 
to the right of Weetamoo ; then comes ledgy Welch 
Mountain, with Fisher over it and Tecumseh to 
the right; then, Osceola's two peaks; Hancock, be- 
yond; and Kancamagus, with Carrigan over it, to 
the left of Sandwich Dome. The view of the lake 
is the best that can be gained. 



90 APPENDIX 

The climb from Etheridge's to Doublehead, along 
the ridge to Mt. Morgan and thence down to the 
Wallace farm, maybe done in from four to six hours. 

MT. LIVERMORE 

Mt. Livermore, which commands one of the 
most beautiful views about Lake Asquam, may 
be ascended very easily frona the Mt. Livermore 
House. There are two routes, as follows: — 

1. Go up the grassy " Lover's Lane" back of the 
hotel, then follow the " upper road " to the right, 
till you reach the first farmhouse on the left, whence 
there is a well-marked path to the summit. 

2. After you reach the upper road keep along 
to the right till the " Hardscrabble " or " Mountain " 
road is reached. Follow this right up to the top of 
the ridge, whence a path leads to the left, a quarter 
of a mile, to the summit. 

The first is recommended for those at the hotel 
and to the south, the second for those to the north. 

The View is very beautiful. T9 the north Mt. 
Moosilauke, Mt. Kinsman, and Cannon Mountain 
are seen between Prospect's huge bulk and Camp- 
ton Mountain; a little to the right Mts. Fisher and 
Tecumseh loom up over the shoulder of Campton 
Mountain; then come the Squam Range and the 
Sandwich Mountains. About east-northeast, to 
the left of Red Hill, the long blue ridge of Pleasant 
Mountain in western Maine is clearly seen on a fine 



APPENDIX 91 

day. Over Red Hill, and beyond, is Ossipee's long 
ridge; again about southeast is Lake Winnepe- 
saukee and over it the Belknap Mountains; while 
a little west of south is the lofty pyramid of Mt. 
Kearsarge near Lake Sunapee. Mt. Cuba is about 
west, near the Vermont line; to its right are Mts. 
Stinson and Carr. These are the most interesting 
and the most distant points seen from the peak. 
The view of Squam Lake being partly shut out by 
the low growth of oak near the top, the visitor would 
do well to descend to the upper end of the field just 
south, and view its bays and islands from that point. 

MT. PROSPECT 

Mt. Prospect is situated in the northern part of 
Holderness, 4-5 miles from Plymouth, and about 
7 miles from Squam Bridge. The ascent is made 
from J. W. Pulsifer's Mt. Prospect Farm, on the 
road to Campton, west of the mountain. About 
100 yards to the south of the farm the road, which 
formerly was used for carriages, but is now imprac- 
ticable for them, starts in between granite posts. It 
is easily followed to the summit, and the climb of 
1|^ miles is not difficult, presenting glorious views 
all the way, which can best be enjoyed in the after- 
noon, when the visitor will be descending. There is 
a spring two thirds of the way up, on the right. 

Low spruces are growing over the summit, and 
the best outlooks are obtained from the eastern 



92 APPENDIX 

ledge, which is crowned by a signal beacon, and 
from a bare, rocky field considerably to the south- 
west. The panorama is supposed to rank among 
the first ten in the White Mountains. 

The View to the North. A little north of west is 
Mt. Kineo's sharp knob, and at the right is the long 
high ridge of Moosilauke. Then comes the rounded 
peak of Kinsman ; then, Cannon, falling off abruptly 
into Franconia Notch; then, the beautiful pyramid 
of Lafayette, at whose right is Mt. Flume, lower, 
but very sharp. Next follow Garfield, more dis- 
tant. Scar Ridge, marked with a slide, a glimpse of 
Mt. Bond, Tecumseh's knob, with Fisher's gentle 
slope to the left and the ledges of Welch below, and 
Osceola, with its lesser peak, to the right. Below 
is the chain of the Campton Mountains. After 
Osceola comes a part of Mt. Hancock, flat Kan- 
camagus, over which the lofty Carrigan looms up; 
and finally, farther to the right, is the distant Mt. 
Washington. 

Farther to the right is the massive bulk of Sand- 
wich Dome, to the east of which is Whiteface, and 
then Paugus, flattened on top. The Squam Range 
is near at hand. Over it are the peaks of Cho- 
corua, the dark summit of Israel, and a glimpse of 
Mt. Pleasant in Maine. Beyond the monotonous 
ridge of the Squam Range are the Ossipee Moun- 
tains, and Red Hill ; while over the low, bare top of 
Mt. Livermore are Squam Lake and, far beyond, 
Lake Winnepesaukee. 



APPENDIX 93 

To the east, the foreground is the narrow valley 
of Owl Brook, to the west the broad and beautiful 
Pemigewasset Valley. 

The following distant peaks are visible to the 
south: — 

Twin Uncanoonucs, Manchester, N. H. Over 
Little Squam Lake. 

Joe English Hill, and perhaps Wachusett in 
Massachusetts. 

To the right of the New Hampton Hills, Crotchet 
Mountain in Francestown, then Pack Monadnock 
and Temple Mountain, together. Last is Mt. Kear- 
sarge at Sunapee, over the Ragged Mountains. 



MT. ISRAEL, SANDWICH 

A pleasant day's excursion may be made from 
Holderness, by taking the morning boat to Sand- 
wich, meeting a wagon, engaged by telephone of 
Brown, in Sandwich, driving to Mt. Israel, and hav- 
ing the wagon take you back in time for the after- 
noon boat. 

There is no path up the peak, but there are two 
routes which can be taken by Holderness people. 
They both start from the farmhouse of Lewis Q. 
Smith. The first strikes straight up, by an old stone 
wall, to the top of the southern ridge, and follows 
the ridge to the summit. The second bears to the 
right across the fields to their extreme upper right- 



94 APPENDIX 

hand corner, and then strikes for the summit. 
There is no path. 

Each route takes from 1^ to 2 J hours. The best 
view is from the East Peak, which is crowned by a 
beacon. The view is very fine, especially to the 
north. 

The View. Sandwich Dome shuts out most of the 
northern view with its vast bulk, being only a few 
miles away. To the right is Tripyramid, marked 
with a great slide. A high ridge runs from Tri- 
pyramid to Whiteface; then come Passaconaway, 
Paugus, white Chocorua, and distant Mt. Pleasant 
in Maine, to whose right are the low peaks of Mts. 
Saddleback and Prospect in Maine. The long range 
of Ossipee is about southeast, on whose right is 
Lake Winnepesaukee, with the heights of Copple 
Crown and Tumble Down Dick over it. Nearer at 
hand is the low mass of Red Hill, over which are 
the two peaks of Mt. Belknap, clearly outlined, 
while to the right Lake Winnesquam can be seen. 
Lake Asquam fills out the southern foreground, 
laid out like a great map in the valley. Over the 
lake, and far away to the south, a great many dis- 
tant peaks may be seen, including the Twin Un- 
canoonucs, the Temple Hills, and Mt. Monadnock, 
all of them over 50 miles away. Over the right of 
Little Squam Lake, which is to the right of Big 
Squam, is the clear blue point of Mt. Kearsarge, 
with the Ragged Mountains nearer and to the right. 
Nearer still are the low Bridgewater Hills. Over 



APPENDIX 95 

these is Lovell's Mountain in Washington, while 
just to the right of Kearsarge is Mt. Sunapee, about 
the same distance away. In the southwest is the 
great mass of the Squam Range, with Mt. Morgan 
farthest to the right, over which is the comparatively 
level top of Mt. Prospect, almost as near. 

Farther away rises Mt. Cardigan, on whose right, 
and extending some distance, are a number of dis- 
tant Vermont peaks, including Mt. Ascutney. On 
the right of the Beebe River valley, nearer at hand, 
is Mt. Stinson, fairly sharp, and then comes the 
dark level ridge of Mt. Carr. Between these two, 
and only a few miles away, are the low Campton 
Mountains, separated from Sandwich Dome by 
the gorge of Sandwich Notch, over which are 
Mt. Kineo, sharply cut, and the high ridge of 
Moosilauke. 

LEAVITT HILL 

This little-known hill, about 1300 feet in height, 
covers the large area between Little Squam Lake 
and White Oak Pond. The western slope is largely 
cleared and from the top commands a fine pano- 
rama of distant mountains. 

It is most easily reached by the road which 
ascends northeasterly from the outlet of Little 
Squam Lake, and, passing the clearing at the sum- 
mit, then descends southerly by the Holmes Farm. 
This road is unsafe for a vehicle. 



96 APPENDIX 

A charming walk to this hill follows the route of 
an obsolete road beginning in a lane, leaving the 
main road a little south of Bruce Piper's and H. S. 
Buzzel's on White Oak Pond. Follow this road 
through pastures, wood, and pastures again till you 
come out on an eminence, commanding a view of 
Little Squam Lake below. Descend to the left, cross 
the brook, and then ascend the pastures to the top 
of the clearing first mentioned. 

The View. Beginning at the left is the flat ridge 
of Tenney Hill. Next Mt. Piermont, Church Hill 
near at hand, and then Mt. Stinson, with Mt. Carr 
directly behind. After Stinson comes Kineo, falling 
off sharply to the left, and over Kineo's right shoul- 
der the conspicuous mass of Mt. Moosilauke. Mt. 
Prospect with its high fields comes next, and over 
a hollow on its right, distant Cannon Mountain. 
On a clear day the Franconia group stands out 
finely, with the two peaks of Lincoln and La- 
fayette, and the sharp pyramid of Flume to the 
right. 

Then comes the long ridge of Campton and Wee- 
tamoo, with Mts. Fisher and Tecumseh and a bit 
of Osceola over its right end. Mt. Morgan, with 
Mt. Livermore first beneath it, shuts out the dis- 
tant view. The Rattlesnakes appear below the 
Squam Range and the great mass of Sandwich 
Dome rises above. Last in turn appear Mts. White- 
face, Passaconaway, Israel, Paugus, and Cho- 
corua. 



APPENDIX 97 



SUNSET HILL 

Sunset Hill is about seven miles east of Squam 
Bridge, not far from Center Harbor. It may be 
reached by following the Center Harbor road for 
about 5^ miles, and then taking a crossroad to the 
right, which finally reaches the old (upper) Mere- 
dith — Center Harbor road. The ascent may easi- 
est be made from a farmhouse on this road, just 
north of the crossroads. The way to the summit 
is all through fields, except for one narrow strip of 
woods. The view of Lake Winnepesaukee on the 
east and Squam Lake on the west is very pretty, 
though not very extensive. The Belknap Range is 
to the right of Winnepesaukee; farther to the right 
Mt. Kearsarge at Sunapee is seen among the San- 
born ton Hills; and more to the west is Cardigan's 
rocky dome. 

The broad southern slope, which is the best view- 
point, makes a good picnic ground. The woods, 
unfortunately, shut out the northern outlook. 

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST 

Rattlesnake Mountain. Lies on the west shore of 
Squam Lake, and is double-peaked. Ascend the 
east peak. 

Red Hill. Northeast of the lake. Go by carriage 
to the foot, and climb by road and good path about 



98 APPENDIX 

an hour. One of the best views in the mountains is 
gained from the observatory on the summit. 

Lone Pine Hill. About one mile south of East 
Holderness. Leave the road at the site of the old 
Squam Mountain House, and climb through the 
fields to the great pine. The view is good. 

McCrillis Hill. South of Lone Pine Hill. A car- 
riage road leads to the top, where a beautiful view 
of the higher peaks is gained. 

Oak Hill, Meredith. About two miles southeast 
of Winona Station. Ascend from a carriage shed on 
the road about a quarter of a mile to the open sum- 
mit. The view includes Moosilauke, Lafayette (just 
to the left of Morgan), Tecumseh, and Osceola. 

Diamond Ledge, Sandwich. To the north of the 
lake. Road passes near the top. Commands a strik- 
ing view of the Sandwich Mountains, and an out- 
look over the lake. 

Squaw Cove, Lake Asquam. In the northwest 
part of the lake, just north of the Rattlesnakes. 

High Haight. A peninsula on the east shore of 
the lake. From the high rocky pasture there is an 
exquisite view. Good picnic ground. 

LONGER DRIVES 

Around the lake. A beautiful all-day excursion. 
Picnic at Diamond Ledge. 

Peavey Hill. Commands a fine view. Situated 
southwest of Little Squam Lake. 



APPENDIX 99 

Ossipee Park. On the slopes of Ossipee Moun- 
tain. Picturesque brook and falls, glorious view to 
the south. Long all-day excursion. 

The Pinnacle. A bare eminence on Meredith 
Neck, near Meredith. Overlooks Lake Winnepe- 
saukee. 

Peaked Hill, Bridgewater. One of the best view- 
points in Grafton County. All-day carriage trip, 
with very short climb at the end. Such peaks as 
Moosilauke, Kinsman, Lafayette, Guyot, Bond, 
Cardigan, and Washington are visible, while the 
foreground is equally beautiful. 

OTHER EXCURSIONS 

The following are suggested : — 

Mt. Belknap. Early train to Laconia, carriage to 
foot, fairly easy climb, and reverse. One day. 

Mt. Moosilauke. Noon train to Warren, carriage 
to the Moosilauke, walk to Tip-Top House. Re- 
verse next day, or else descend to North Woodstock. 

Mt. Chocorua. Launch and carriage (Brown, of 
Sandwich — order by telephone) to foot. Walk to 
Peak House. Reverse next day. 

Also steamboat trip on Lake Asquam; steam- 
boat trip on Lake Winnepesaukee; Locke's Hill on 
Winnepesaukee (by train and carriage) ; Mt. Wash- 
ington (going via Lake Winnepesaukee and Craw- 
ford Notch, returning by western route, three 
days), etc. 



INDEX 



Adams, the iimholder, 35. 
Adams, the parson, 38. 

Baker, Capt. Thomas, 15. 

Baptists, Free Will, 74. 

Bass, Rev. Edward, his elec- 
tion protested, 53; visits Hol- 
derness, 68. 

Belknap, Mt., 99. 

Books, advertised, 77. 

Charter, of 1751, 21; of 1761, 
xi, 25. 

Chocorua, 17; Mt., 99. 

Church, plans for erection of, 
67, 69; property of Liver- 
mores, 72; services, 72; de- 
cline, 73, 74. 

Church Hill, 24. 

Cohoss, 22. 

Constitution of U. S., Liver- 
more moves adoption of, 64. 

Cox, James, 65. 

Currj', Samuel, 55. 

Cusumpy, 23. 

Diamond Ledge, 98. 
Domes, the, view from, 86. 

Endicott Rock, 1-8. 
Endicott tree, 4. 

Fowle, Rev. Robert, his com- 
ing to Holdemess, 69; ordina- 
tion, 70; marriage, 70; lot, 
71 ; membership in Diocesan 
Convention, 73; long minis- 
try, 73, 74; death, 74. 



Gorges and Mason, 1, 2. 
Grantees, list of, 59. 

Harvard College, 49. 

High Haight, 98. 

Holderness, in Yorkshire, 29; 

in poetry and fiction, 30. 
Holderness, Earl of, 31-34. 

Ince, Jonathan, 4. 

Lidian Trail, 12, 13. 

Lidians of New Hampshire, 10, 

11. 
Israel, Mt., view from, 93-95. 

Johnson, Capt. Edward, 4. 

Lane, Samuel, 22, 24. 

Leavitt Hill, 95-97. 

Liquor licenses, 79. 

Livermore, Arthur, 66, 77. 

Livermore, Ed. St. Loe, 66. 

Livermore, Samuel, journey to 
Nassau, 60; studies, 61; mar- 
riage, 61; attorney general, 
62; land in Holdemess, 62; 
in Congress, 63; his neigh- 
borliness, 65 ; death, 66. 

Livermore, Mt., view from, 90. 

Lone Pine Hill, 98. 

Lots, plan of, 35. 

Lovewell, Capt., 17. 

Mails in 1795, 76. 
Massachusetts, boundary of, 

37. 
McCrillis HiU, 98. 
Mooney, Hercules, 44, 45. 



102 



INDEX 



Moosilauke, Mt., 99. 
Morgan, Mt., view from, 87-89. 

Oak HiU, 98. 
Ossipee Park, 99. 

Passaconaway, 14. 

Paugus, 17. 

Peaked HiU, 99. 

Peavey Hill, 98. 

Pinnacle, 99. 

Piper, William, 50. 

Prices, 80. 

Prospect, Mt., view from, 91-93. 

Rattlesnake Mt., 97. 

Red Hill, 97. 

Road, the College, 46-50; the 

Province, 43. 
Rogers, Robert, 18. 



School, Holderness, 63. 
Shepard, John, 51. 
Shepard, Samuel, 41-43. 
Shepard, Thomas, 21, 40. 
Shepard Hill, view from, 85. 
Sherman, John, 5. 
Smythe, Andrew, 53. 
Squam Lake, 22-24. 
Squam Range, view from, 87. 
Squaw Cove, 98. 
Sweeney, Bryan, 54. 

Thompson, Nathaniel, 52. 
Town meeting, the first, 52, 
57. 

Wages, 57, 58, 80. 
Weirs, 5. 

Wentworth, Benning, 21, 25. 
Wentworth, John, 47-50. 



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